Design story

The Icelandic knitting tradition is an endless source of inspiration for me. Old Icelandic knitted insoles, as described in my book, Icelandic Knitting using Rose Patterns, and traditional Icelandic women's costume were my inspiration for this sweater. Striped inserts were used every day in soft skin shoes, whereas inserts with beautiful floral patterns were Sunday-best. They were knitted with Icelandic intarsia, i.e. intarsia in garter stitch. I tried to keep in mind how old garments were knitted entirely in the round, most commonly in stocking stitch with edges in rib or garter stitch, and how especially the women's jackets were knitted to shape in a clever and rather intricate manner. As the sweater was intended for the spring-summer issue, fresh-blown crocus and the greenest Icelandic moss were first to come to my mind. The result is... maybe not so typically Icelandic, but has a definite vintage flair!

Materials

Rowan Handknit DK 100% cotton, (85 m/93 yds per 50 gm ball)
6 (7, 7, 8, 9) balls - shade Goosebery 219 (MC)
1 ball - shade Sunflower 336 (B)
1 ball - shade Bleached 263 (A)
1 ball - shade Lupin 305 (D)
4mm (US #6) circular needle
Set of 4mm (US #6) Double pointed needles (DPN's)
3.5mm (US #4-5) needles
3 mm crochet hook

Measurements

Garment in photos is to fit size 38-40 inches

To fit bust sizes	30 - 32	34 - 36	38 - 40	42 - 44	46 - 48	inches
	76 - 82	86 - 92	96 - 102	106 - 112	116 - 122	cm
Finished bust size	30	34	39	43	48	inches
	76	87	98	110	122	cm
Finished body length (to armhole)	13	14	15	16	17	inches
	33	36	39	41	44	cm

Tension

17 sts x 25 rows = 10 cm (4 inches) using 4mm (US #6) needles over stocking stitch.

Abbreviations

st, sts - stitch, stitches
K - Knit
P - Purl
M1 - make one st by knitting into back of loop lying between stitches
K1F&B - knit into front of st but don't take off needle and knit into back of stitch
K2tog - knit two stitches together
K3tog - knit three stitches together
*-* - repeat between
sl - slip st as if to purl, unless otherwise specified
ssk (slip, slip, knit) - slip next 2 sts knitwise to RH needle, return them to LH needle, K2tog through the back loops
yo - yarn over, yarn forward on RS, yarn around the needle from front to back on WS
MC - main color
LH, RH needle - left hand, right hand needle
DPN's - Double pointed needles
EOR marker - end of row marker

Pattern notes

This garment is worked entirely in the round from the bottom up, with short row shaping around the shoulders. The bow is worked separately with Icelandic intarsia (intarsia in garter stitch).

Stocking stitch in the round: knit every round
Garter stitch in the round : *1 row K, 1 row P*
1 garter = 2 rows
Short rows are made using yo (yarn over) technique.
Icelandic intarsia: intarsia knitted in garter stitch. When changing colour, new colour of yarn is drawn over the yarn that has been used so far, both on RS and WS. I don't use bobbins since so little of each color is required but you certainly can if you are more comfortable with this process.

Double Crochet - UK definition - in the US work Single Crochet.

Pattern

Body

Cast on 104(120,136,152,168) sts using 4mm (US #6) circular needle and MC, placing a marker after 52(60,68,76,84) sts and another at end of the row. Join into a round. Work 6 garters (12 rows) in garter stitch. Continue in stocking stitch. Knit every round. When the body measures 21(22,22,23,23) cm (8,8.5,8.5,9,9 inches), work increases on every 5th round, 6(7,8,9,10) times as follows: *K1, M1, knit to last st before marker, M1, K1, rep. from * to end of round, until there are 128(148,168,188,208) sts on needle.

Divide for armholes

Knit to last 4(5,5,6,6) sts before next marker; K 8(10,10,12,12) sts for left underarm, removing marker, place these 8(10,10,12,12) sts on a stitch holder or a length of yarn; Knit to last 4(5,5,6,6) sts before EOR marker, K 8(10,10,12,12) sts for right underarm, removing marker, place sts on a stitch holder or a length of yarn. Set body aside. Don't break off yarn.

Sleeves (make two)

Cast on 40(44,48,52,56) sts using set of 4mm (US #6) DPN's and yarn D. Change to MC and join into a round. Work 3 garters (6 rows) in garter stitch. Continue in stocking stitch. In the 2nd row, increase 20(22,24,26,28) sts as follows: *K2, M1, rep from* to end of round (60,66,72,78,84 sts). Work 7(8,8,9,9) rounds then set aside the 8(10,10,12,12) sts from the underarm midpoint of the sleeve on a stitch holder or a length of yarn. Set sleeve aside. Leave a long length of yarn (used later to graft the armpit). Knit the other sleeve in the same way.

Joining for Yoke

Combine the body and the sleeves on the 4mm (US #6) circular needle as follows: K 4(5,5,6,6) sts, place right back neck marker, K 48(54,64,70,80) sts for centre back, place left back neck marker; K 4(5,5,6,6) sts, place left back raglan marker; K 52(56,62,66,72) sts of left sleeve, place left front raglan marker; K 8(10,10,12, 2) sts, place left front neck marker; K 20(22,27,29,34) sts for left front, place central marker, K 20(22,27,29,34) sts for right front, place right front neck marker; K 8(10,10,12,12) sts, place right front raglan marker; K 52(56,62,66,72) sts of right sleeve, place right back raglan marker. This is the new EOR marker. (216,240,272,296,328 sts). Knit for a further 4(5,5,6,7) cm (1.5,2,2,2.5,3 inches).

Shape Front

Knit to left front neck marker and work short rows between front neck markers, working one less st in each row, 4(5,5,6,6) sts on each side, as follows :

Turn, yo, sl next st, P to right front marker, turn, yo, sl next st knitwise, *K to last slipped st before left front neck marker , turn, yo, sl next st, P to last slipped st before right front neck marker, turn, yo, sl next st knitwise, rep. 3(4,4,5,5) times from *.

Shape right shoulder

K to right back neck marker and work short rows between right neck markers, working one less st in each row, 4(5,5,6,6) sts on each side, as follows:

*Turn, yo, sl next st, P to last slipped st before right front neck marker, turn, yo, sl next st knitwise, K to last slipped st before right back neck marker, rep 4(5,5,6,6) times from *.

Continue knitting, closing the gaps of the right back shoulder by knitting the yo and the next st as follows: sl yo through the back loop, return it to LH needle, K2tog.

Shape left shoulder

K to last slipped st before left front neck marker and work short rows between left neck markers, working one less st in each row, 4(5,5,6,6) sts on each side, as follows:

Turn, yo, sl next st, P to left back neck marker, turn, yo, sl next st knitwise, *K to last slipped st before left front neck marker, turn, yo, sl next st, P to last slipped st before left back marker, turn, yo, sl next st knitwise, rep 3(4,4,5,5) times from *

Continue knitting, removing raglan and neck markers, shaping the sleeves and AT SAME TIME closing all the gaps as follows:

• shape left sleeve between raglan markers as follows: K3tog 17(18,20,22,24) times, K1(K2tog,K2tog,-,-) last st(s).
• close gaps of left front shoulder by knitting the yo and the next st as follows: sl yo through the back loop, return it to LH needle, K2tog.
• close gaps of right front shoulder by knitting together the yo and the previous st as follows: ssk.
• shape right sleeve in the same way as left sleeve.
• gaps of right back shoulder are now closed.
• close gaps of left back shoulder in the same way as right front shoulder.

Knit to EOR marker (148,166,190,208,232 sts).

Collar

Work 10 garters (20 rounds) in garter stitch AND AT SAME TIME, after 2 garters (4 rows) of collar, work 37(41,47,52,58) decreases as follows:

Round 5: *K2, K2tog* to end of round, K remaining sts (111,127,145,156,174 sts). AT THE SAME TIME, make the loop for the bow as follows: after 3 garters (6 rows) of collar, in the 7th row, double the 8 central front sts (4 sts on each side of central front marker) by K8F&B, and place the 8 extra sts on another needle, work 12 rows in stocking st on these sts only then place on a stitch holder. Continue working garter stitch rounds as set.

Round 15: Work 22(25,29,31,34) decreases as follows: *K3, K2tog* to end of round, K remaining sts (90,104,116,126,144 sts).

Round 19: Transfer the 8 sts for the bow loop from stitch holder to a DPN and attach to the collar by knitting together with the 8 central front sts. Work 3 more garters (6 rounds) and cast off.

Bow (Worked flat)

Cast on 4 sts using 3.5mm (US #4-5) needles and MC. Work in garter stitch. Increase 1 st on each side in every garter (every 2 rows), 12(12,13,13,13) times 24(24,26,26,26 rows) worked. (28,28,30,30,30 sts).

AT THIS POINT FOLLOW CHART COMMENCING WITH FIRST TWO COLOURED ROW. PLEASE NOTE THAT EACH ROW SHOWN SHOWS THE STITCHES FOR TWO CONSECUTIVE ROWS AND THAT ALL ROWS ARE WORKED IN KNIT STITCH.

When pattern is complete, knit 4(4,4,5,6) more garters (8,8,8,10,12 rows), then knit Rose pattern again. After 20(20,20,21,21) garters (40,40,40,42,42 rows) from beginning of pattern, decrease 1 st on each side in every garter (every 2 rows) 12(12,13,13,13) times. 24(24,26,26,26) rows worked. Cast off the 4 remaining sts. Crochet an edging around the bow using double crochet and MC.

Making up

Under arm seams

Graft sts of sleeves and body at underarms with a yarn needle and Kitchener st. (Alternatively work a three needle bind off.) Darn in all ends. Insert the bow through the loop and stitch it in place. You can also sew on using press studs so that the bow can be changed.

See also Hélène's article about the Icelandic knitting tradition in this issue.

Hélène is the author of
Icelandic Knitting using Rose patterns, Search Press 2008.

Click here for details of how to order this book at a Special Offer price.

More of Hélène's work can be seen at www.helenemagnusson.com

 
Black and white pictures courtesy Sigfús Eymundsson and Bjarni K. Eyjólfsson.
This pattern is not to be used commercially or to be resold.  Copyright © Hélène Magnússon 2009