Design Story

From my very earliest memories of James Bond films, I thought that Miss Moneypenny was glamorous, sexy and well dressed and was always shocked that James Bond didn't seem to agree. In her body hugging pencil skirts, stiletto heels and shapely knitwear she was the epitome of what a grown up lady should look like. Its interesting that these 1960s films poked fun at an image that is now considered attractive by so many people. The late 50s-early 60s saw the rise in popularity of thicker, quick knit yarns yet designers still managed to create a 'slinky' silhouette. I have tried to do the same, using this fabulously chunky yarn from Twinkle, which has the advantage over many of the comparible 60s yarns of being 100% wool. I have tried to keep some of the signature design features of so many of the patterns of this period - using ribbed stitches, large buttons, grown-on stand up collar, and using negative ease. To this I have incorporated contemporary construction methods - the garment is knitted in one piece in rows from the bottom up, divided for armholes, then joined together at the shoulders with three needle bind off technique. The button band is knitted as part of the garment as is the collar, which is shaped at the fronts with short rows. The sleeves are knitted separately and sewn in place. The garment is designed with negative ease to allow it to stretch over the body.

Materials

Twinkle Soft Chunky, 100% wool, 76 metres (83 yards) per 200 gm skein
4 (5, 6) skeins, shade 15 (Peach)

8 mm (US 11) circular needle
10 mm (US 15) circular needle
5 buttons
Co-ordinating DK weight yarn for sewing up

Measurements

To fit sizes	32-36	38-42	44-48	inches
	81-91	96-107	112-122	cm
Actual Size	32	37	42	inches
	81	94	106	cm

Tension

8.5 sts & 10.5 rows to 10 cm (4 inches) using 10 mm (US 15) needles over rib pattern.

Abbreviations

K - knit
P - purl
RS - right side
WS - wrong side
PM - place marker
SM - slip marker
BO - bind off (cast off)
CO - cast on
patt - pattern
st(s) - st (stitches)
w&t - wrap and turn
Sl1, K2tog, PSSO - (slip one stitch, knit next two sts together, pass slip stitch over)
K2tog - knit two stitches together

Pattern Notes

Because of the thickness of this yarn it is recommended that you leave long ends to enable darning in to be done efficiently.

Pattern

First Size only

Using 8 mm (US 11) circular needle, cast on 76 sts.

Row 1 (RS): K4, (P3, K3) 3 times, PM, (P3, K3) 5 times, P3, PM, (K3, P3) 3 times, K3.
Row 2: (P3, K3) 3 times, P3, SM, (K3, P3) 5 times, K3, SM, (P3, K3) 3 times, P4.
Row 3: K4, (P3, K3) 3 times, SM, (P3, K3) 5 times, P3, SM, (K3, P3) 3 times, K3.
Row 4: (P3, K3) 3 times, P3, SM, (K3, P3) 5 times, K3, SM, (P3, K3) 3 times, P4.
Rows 3 and 4 set pattern.

Second Size only

Using 8 mm (US 11) circular needle, cast on 88 sts.

Row 1 (RS): K4 (P3, K3) 3 times, P3, PM, (K3, P3) 6 times, K3, PM, (P3, K3) 4 times.
Row 2: (P3, K3) 4 times, SM, (P3, K3) 6 times, P3, SM, (K3, P3) 3 times, K3, P4.
Row 3: K4 (P3, K3) 3 times, P3, SM, (K3, P3) 6 times, K3, SM, (P3, K3) 4 times.
Row 4: (P3, K3) 4 times, SM, (P3, K3) 6 times, P3, SM, (K3, P3) 3 times, K3, P4.
Rows 3 and 4 set pattern.

Third Size only

Using 8 mm (US 11) circular needle, cast on 100 sts.

Row 1 (RS): K4, (P3, K3) 4 times, PM, (P3, K3) 7 times, P3, PM, (K3, P3) 4 times, K3.
Row 2: (P3, K3) 4 times, P3, SM, (K3, P3) 7 times, K3, SM, (P3, K3) 4 times, P4.
Row 3: K4, (P3, K3) 4 times, SM, (P3, K3) 7 times, P3, SM, (K3, P3) 4 times, K3.
Row 4: (P3, K3) 4 times, P3, SM, (K3, P3) 7 times, K3, SM, (P3, K3) 4 times, P4.
Rows 3 and 4 set pattern.

All sizes

Buttonhole row 1 (RS): K2, BO1, pattern to end.
Buttonhole row 2: Patt to BO st., turn, CO 1, turn, patt to end.

Work a further 4 rows in pattern.
Work 2 buttonhole rows.

Change to 10 mm (US 15) circular needle. Continue in pattern working further buttonholes on each subsequent 11th and 12th rows. At same time work without shaping until work measures 29 (31.5, 34.5) cm (11.5, 12.5, 13.5 inches) or desired length.

Shape Armholes

Pattern to within 4 (5, 5) sts of first marker. BO next 8 (10, 10) sts, removing marker. Pattern to within 4 (5, 5) sts of second marker, turn, and continue working on back sts only (25, 29, 35 sts). Place front sts onto two separate strands of waste yarn.

Decrease 1 st at each end of the next 2 (2, 4) rows (23, 27, 31 sts).
Next row (WS): P.
Without further shaping work in stocking stitch until armhole measures 18 (18, 20) cm (7, 7, 8 inches) ending with a WS row.

Shoulder Shaping

K to within 3 (4, 5) sts of end of row, w&t, P to within 3 (4, 5) sts of opposite end of row, w&t, and K to within 6 (8, 10) sts of end of row, w&t and P to within 6 (8, 10) sts of opposite end of row, w&t and K to end of row. Place sts on waste yarn.

Right Front

With WS facing, return sts from right front to 10 mm (US 15) circular needle (18, 20, 23 sts). Dec 1 st at armhole edge, patt to end of row.

First and Second sizes only

Work 2 more rows in pattern.

Third size only

Patt to last 2 sts, work 2 sts tog.
Work 1 more row in pattern.

All Sizes

Commencing with a K row work in stocking stitch, remembering to work buttonholes when necessary, until front is 6 rows shorter than back to start of shoulder shaping ending with a RS row.

Next row: P to last 11 sts, w&t, K to end.

Next row: K to last 3 (4, 5) sts, w&t, P to within 11 sts of neck edge of row, turn, K to within 6 (8, 10) sts of armhole end of row, w&t, P3 (4, 5), w&t, K to end of row. Leave 11 sts on one holder and shoulder sts on a second holder.

Left Front

Using 10 mm (US 15) circular needle, and with RS facing, rejoin yarn to rem sts. BO 8 (10, 10) sts, removing marker, patt to end.
Next row (WS): Patt to last 2 sts, work 2 sts together.

First and Second sizes only

Work 2 more rows in patt.

Third Size only

Dec 1 st at armhole edge, patt to end of row.
Work 1 more row in pattern.

All Sizes

Work in st st to match right front, reversing all shaping and without working buttonholes, until front is 6 rows shorter than back to start of shoulder shaping ending with a WS row.

Next row: K to last 10 sts, w&t, P to end.

Next row: P to last 3(4,5) sts, w&t, K to within 10 sts of neck edge of row, turn, P to within 6 (8, 10) sts of armhole end of row, w&t, K3 (4, 5), w&t, P to end of row. Leave 10 sts on one holder and shoulder sts on a second holder.

Join Shoulder Seams

Using both ends of 10 mm (US 15) circular needle place sts from front and back shoulder pieces back onto needle. Hold with RS together. Using 8 mm (US 11) needle work three needle bind off by knitting together one st from each shoulder, repeat, then cast first st off over 2nd. Repeat until all sts from front shoulder are cast off. Leave remaining 11 sts from centre back on holder.

Collar

Using 8 mm (US 11) circular needle and beginning at right front edge, pick up 11 sts off holder, pick up 7 sts along side neck, K across sts on holder at centre back, making one st at centre, pick up 7 sts along left side neck, and pick up 10 sts on holder on left front (45 sts).

Next row (WS): (P3, K3) 7 times, P3.
Next row: (K3, P3) 7 times, K3.
Next row: Patt 15 sts, SL1, K2tog, PSSO, patt 9 sts, SL1, K2tog, PSSO, patt to end of row.
Next row: K the K sts, P the P sts.
Next row: Patt 14 sts, SL1, K2tog, PSSO, patt 9 sts, SL1, K2tog, PSSO, patt to end of row.
Next row: K the K sts, P the P sts.
Next row (RS): Patt 15 sts, w&t, patt to end, turn, patt 9 sts, w&t, patt to end, turn, patt 3 sts, w&t, patt to end.
Pattern one row.
Next row (WS): Patt 15 sts, w&t, patt to end, turn, patt 9 sts, w&t, patt to end, turn, patt 3 sts, w&t, patt to end.
Next row: Cast off in pattern.

Sleeves (Make Two)

Using 8 mm (US 11) circular needle, cast on 24 (24, 27) sts.

First and Second Sizes only

Row 1 (RS): (K3, P3) 3 times.
Repeat this row 3 more times.

Third Size only

Row 1 (RS): K2, P3 (K3, P3) to last st, K1.
Row 2: P1 (K3, P3) to last 5 sts, K3, P2.
Repeat these 2 rows once more.

First Size only

Increase row: *K1, K into front and back of next 2 sts, rep from * to end of row (40 sts).

Second Size only

Increase row: K into front and back of next 3 sts, *K1, K into front and back of next 2 sts, rep from * to last 3 sts, K into front and back of remaining 3 sts (42 sts).

Third Size only

Increase row: K into front and back of next 3 sts, *K1, K into front and back of next 2 sts, rep from * to end (46 sts).

Shaping

Cast off 4 (5, 5) sts at beg of next 2 rows. K2tog at each end of next and every foll alt row until 14 sts rem. Work 1 row. Cast off.

Making up

Darn in all ends. Using co-ordinating yarn throughout, join sleeve seams together. Pin sleeves in place matching centre sleeve head to shoulder seam. Sew in place using a neat, firm back stitch. Sew buttons in place.

This pattern is not to be used commercially or to be resold.  Copyright © Just call me Ruby 2009