Design Story
This garment provides all the allure of the 1930s. A ribbed collar adds a feminine flair and offers a perfect frame for a vintage brooch. The flared sleeves add to the romantic image, as to the delicate picot edges. This garment is knitted in the round without seams, even the collar is worked directly from the body.
Materials
Sublime cashmere merino silk dk, 75% extra fine merino, 20% silk, 5% cashmere, 116 metres (127 yards) per 50 gm ball.
5 (5, 6, 6, 7, 7, 8, 8, 9, 9, 10, 10, 11, 11, 12, 12, 13, 13) balls shade 0054
4 mm (US #6) DPNs (2 sets or a set close in size to act as stitch holders)
4 mm (US #6) 24 & 36" circular needles
3.25 or 3.5 mm (US #4) 24 or 36" circular needle
Yarn needle
Waste yarn
Stitch markers
Finished Measurements
Finished Bust 71.1 (76.2, 81.3, 86.4, 91.4, 96.5, 101.6, 106.7, 111.8, 116.8, 121.9, 127.0, 132.1, 137.2, 142.2, 147.3, 152.4, 157.5) cm (28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44, 46, 48, 50, 52, 54, 56, 58, 60, 62) inches
Size shown 36 inch (96.5 cm) chest.
Tension
22 sts and 28 rows = 10 cm (4 inches) using 4 mm (US 6) needles over Stocking stitch.
Abbreviations
Beg - beginning
BO - bind off
CO - cast on
Cont - continue
k - knit
p - purl
rep - repeat
sl - slip
st(s) - stitch(es)
SSK - slip, slip, knit
K2tog - knit two together
kfb - knit into front and back of st
st st - stocking stitch
Pattern Notes
This curve clinging top is worked entirely in the round from the bottom up. The body is worked to the armholes and then temporarily put on hold. Each sleeve is worked on DPNs. Underarm stitches for sleeves and body are placed on waste yarn to be grafted together later. The sleeves and body are joined and the yoke is worked in the round.
Calculations
Before beginning you'll need to take a few measurements to determine your personal waist shaping for a perfect fit.
A. |
Measure your bust at the fullest point (this measurement will also count as your hip measurement) = ___ |
B. |
Measure your waist at the thinnest point = ___ |
C. |
Determine the amount you are at liberty to decrease by subtracting A-B. (Using this number will give you a body hugging fit. If you prefer a little breathing room in your tops you should aim somewhere between decreasing this measurement and decreasing 4 inches, which is enough to give you a form flattering fit.) = ___ |
D. |
Multiply C × stitch gauge per inch to determine how many stitches will actually be decreased ___ sts. Now divide this number by 4 (since you will be decreasing one stitch before and after both side markers) to determine how many decrease rows you'll need to work in order to reach your waist measurement. = ___ |
| F. | Measure vertically from armpit to waist and subtract 2.5 inches = ___ |
| G. | Measure vertically from armpit to desired length and subtract 2.5 inches =___ |
| H. | Subtract G - F to determine waist to length measurement. Now multiply this number by row gauge per inch to determine the number of rows you'll be decreasing over = ___ |
| I. | Divide H by D to determine how often to work a decrease row= ___ |
| J. | Now multiply F x row gauge per inch to determine the number of rows you'll be increasing over = ___ |
| K. | Divide J by D to determine how often to work an increase row = ___ |
Pattern
Body
Using shorter 4 mm (US #6) circular needle, CO 4 sts using cable cast on. * K2, BO1, k1, BO1, slip last st on right hand needle to left. CO 4 more sts using cable cast on. Rep from * until you have 77 (83, 88, 94, 99, 105, 110, 116, 121, 127, 132, 138, 143, 149, 154, 160, 165, 171) sts.
Next row: *K first st, pick up top loop of picot front to back with the left hand needle and ktbl, k1. Rep from *. 154 (166, 176, 188, 198, 210, 220, 232, 242, 254, 264, 276, 286, 298, 308, 320, 330, 342) sts. Change to longer 4 mm (US #6) circular needle when necessary.
Join for working in round and PM to mark beginning of round and after 77 (83, 88, 94, 99, 105, 110, 116, 121, 127, 132, 138, 143, 149, 154, 160, 165, 171) sts to mark other side for waist shaping. You should have the same number of sts between markers. Work in K3, P3 rib for four rounds. Work 12 rounds in st st.
Waist shaping
Decrease row: *SSK, k to 2 sts before marker, K2tog, SM, rep from * once. Repeat this every ___ row (refer to I above) 6 times.
Work in stocking stitch for 2.5 cm (1 inch).
Increase row: kfb, k to 1 st before marker, kfb, SM, rep from * once. Repeat this row every ___row (refer to K above) 6 times.
Work in stocking stitch without shaping for 5 cm (2 inches).
Knit next 14 (14, 16, 16, 18, 18, 20, 20, 22, 22, 24, 24, 26, 26, 28, 28, 30, 30) sts and place on waste yarn. Continue in St st across next 63 (69, 72, 78, 81, 87, 90, 96, 99, 105, 108, 114, 117, 123, 126, 132, 135, 141) sts, knit next 14( 14, 16, 16, 18, 18, 20, 20, 22, 22, 24, 24, 26, 26, 28, 28, 30, 30) sts and place on waste yarn. Continue in St st to end of round. Place on a holder or spare yarn and proceed to sleeves. Do not break yarn.
Sleeves (Make two)
Using 4 mm (US #6) DPNS CO 3 sts using cable cast on. * K2, BO1 to make a single picot. Place remaining stitch to left needle as if to purl. CO 2 more sts using cable cast on. Rep from * until you have 40 (40, 44, 48, 48, 48, 52, 52, 54, 58, 64, 64, 70, 70, 72, 78, 78) sts.
Next row: *K first st, pick up the loop on top of each picot with the left hand needle from back to front and purl the new stitch through the front of the loop. Rep from * ending with k1. (60, 60, 66, 72, 72, 72, 78, 78, 81, 87, 96, 96, 105, 105, 108, 108, 117, 117 sts.)
Join for working in round, PM to mark beginning of round. SSK, k to 2 sts before marker, k2tog. Work two rounds without decreasing. Rep these three rounds until until sleeve measures 9 (9, 9, 9, 9, 9, 11.5, 11.5, 11.5, 11.5, 11.5, 11.5, 14, 14, 14, 14, 14, 14) cm (3.5, 3.5, 3.5, 3.5, 3.5, 3.5, 4.5, 4.5, 4.5, 4.5, 4.5, 4.5, 5.5, 5.5, 5.5, 5.5, 5.5, 5.5) inches. Place 7 (7, 8, 8, 9, 9, 10, 10, 11, 11, 12, 12, 13, 13, 14, 14, 15, 15) sts on either side of marker on waste yarn. Taking care to leave a long tail, break yarn and place remaining sts on spare DPN's. Repeat for other sleeve.
Joining for Yoke
You will be using the circular needle and yarn still attached to the body section to knit the sleeve sts from DPNs of one sleeve, then a body portion, the sleeve sts from the 2nd sleeve, then the second body portion. Don't worry about the underarm sts on waste yarn, they will be joined when the yoke is complete.
Using circular needle and yarn attached to body knit 34 (34, 36, 42, 42, 42, 42, 42, 43, 49, 56, 56, 59, 59, 60, 60, 67, 67) sts from DPNs of one sleeve, PM. Continue in pattern across next 63 (69, 72, 78, 81, 87, 90, 96, 99, 105, 108, 114, 117, 123, 126, 132, 135, 141), PM, knit 34 (34, 36, 42, 42, 42, 42, 42, 43, 49, 56, 56, 59, 59, 60, 60, 67, 67) sts from DPNs of second sleeve, PM, knit 63 (69, 72, 78, 81, 87, 90, 96, 99, 105, 108, 114, 117, 123, 126, 132, 135, 141), PM. (194, 194, 216, 240, 246, 258, 264, 276, 284, 308, 328, 340, 352, 364, 372, 384, 404, 416 sts).
Working in the round and st st shape yoke as follows:
On next and every foll 4 th round dec 1st at either side of each marker. (29 rows worked in total). (If you require more depth to the yoke, work extra rounds between the decrease rounds.)
Collar
Rearrange sts for row to begin at centre front, leaving markers at centre of each raglan shaping. Use different markers to indicate centre front and centre back. Change to 3.25 mm or 3.5 mm (US #4) circular needle, and working in rows, work 2 rows of K1, P1 rib.
Next row: Cast off centre front st, work to end of row.
Work 1 further row.
Next row, work to centre back and work centre 2 sts tog., turn and work on these first sts only, leaving rem sts on waste yarn or stitch holder.
Next row: * Work to 2 sts before next marker, K1, M1, P1, SM, patt 2sts, M1, rep from * once more.
Work 5 rows without shaping, working both the K st and M1 st as K sts.
Next row: * Patt to 2 K sts, K1, M1, K1, P1, SM, patt to 2 Ksts, K1, M1, K1, rep from * once more.
Work 5 rows without shaping, working the M1 sts as P sts.
Repeat the last 12 rows once more.
Work picot bind off as follows: Cast off 2 sts, * turn, CO 2, turn, BO2, leaving 1 st on needle, BO2 from main knitting, rep from * to end, casting off any remaining sts at end of row.
Joining underarm seams
Turn sweater inside out and using 3 needle bind off close underarm seam. You could also use Kitchener stitch if you are more comfortable with that method.
Finishing
Darn in all ends. Block garment.
For more of Jacquelyn's designs visit jacquelynlandry.com
This pattern is not to be used commercially or to be resold.
Copyright © Jacquelyn Landry 2009 Pattern adaption Copyright © knitonthenet 2009
