|
Design Story
This jacket is inspired by the silver screen glamour of the 1930s, and, in particular, the style of Joan Crawford. Her character 'Crystal' in 'The Women' was very influential - a common shop girl with airs above her station and expensive tastes.
I wanted to incorporate a peplum into the design, but didn't want it to taper at the back, as I wanted it to be quite short and playful with a slightly raised waistline. I seem to put bows on everything, but managed to restrain myself to just one here. Silk was the obvious choice, as it emphasises the soft drape of the full sleeves and peplum.
Materials
Knitshop 2 Ply Mulberry Silk, 100% silk, 250 metres ( 273 yards) per 100gm skein
6 skeins of shade 40
|
Please note this garment was originally knitted in a silk that is now unavailable and has now been re knitted in the above yarn. Photographs of the jacket in red show the new colour way in Knitshop Mulberry Silk shade 40.
|
1 pair 3.25 mm (US 4) needles
1 pair 3.5 mm (US 5) needles
8 press studs or 6 hooks and eyes and 2 press studs for belt.
petersham ribbon, approx 4 cm (1.5 inches) wide, in matching colour - Take waist measurement of wearer plus approx 7.5 cm (3 inches) for overlap.
Measurements
Garment in photo to fit size 34 inch (86 cm) chest
| To fit |
34 |
36 |
38 |
40 |
42 |
in |
| |
86 |
92 |
97 |
102 |
106 |
cm |
| Actual size |
35 |
38 |
40 |
42 |
44 |
in |
| |
89 |
97 |
102 |
106 |
112 |
cm |
| Back width |
17.5 |
19 |
20 |
21 |
22 |
in |
| |
45 |
48.5 |
51 |
53.5 |
56 |
cm |
| Length to underarm |
13.5 |
13.5 |
14 |
14.5 |
15 |
in |
| |
34 |
34 |
35.5 |
37 |
38 |
cm |
| Finished Length |
21 |
21 |
21.5 |
22 |
22.5 |
in |
| |
54 |
54 |
54.5 |
56 |
57 |
cm |
| Sleeve |
13 |
13 |
13 |
13 |
13 |
in |
| |
33 |
33 |
33 |
33 |
33 |
cm |
Tension
23 sts & 30 rows to 10cm (4 inches) using 3.25 mm (US 4) needles over stocking stitch.
Abbreviations
DD - double decreasing - SL2tog knitwise, K1, pass 2 slipped sts over the knit stitch
SL1 - Slip 1 stitch
St st - Stocking stitch
Psso - Pass slipped stitch over
yf - Yarn forward
K2tog - knit two stitches together
P2tog - purl two stitches together
SKPO - Slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over
Pattern
Back
Using 3.25 mm (US 4) needles cast on 169 (177, 185, 189, 195) sts.
Work 4 rows stocking stitch.
Next Row (Picot Row): (RS) K1, *yf, K2tog, repeat from * to end of row.
Work 5 rows stocking stitch.
Commence double decreasing as follows:
Row 1: (RS) K23 (27, 27, 29, 30) DD (K27 (27, 29, 29, 30) DD) 4 times, K23 (27, 27, 29, 30) (159, 167, 175, 179, 185 sts).
Rows 2 - 4: Stocking stitch, (always beginning with a purl row).
Row 5: K22 (26, 26, 28, 29) DD (K25 (25, 27, 27, 28), DD) 4 times, K 22 (26, 26, 28, 29).
Rows 6 - 10: St st.
Row 11: K21 (25, 25, 27, 28), DD (K23 (23, 25, 25, 26), DD) 4 times, K 21 (25, 25, 27, 28).
Rows 12 - 16: St st.
Row 17: K20 (24, 24, 26, 27), DD (K21 (21, 23, 23, 24), DD) 4 times, K20 (24, 24, 26, 27).
Rows 18 - 22: St st.
Row 23: K19 (23, 23, 25, 26), DD (K19 (19, 21, 21, 22), DD) 4 times, K19 (23, 23, 25, 26).
Rows 24 - 26: St st.
Row 27: K18 (22, 22, 24, 25), DD (K17 (17, 19, 19, 20), DD) 4 times, K18 (22, 22, 24, 25).
Rows 28 - 30: St st.
Row 31: K17 (21, 21, 23, 24), DD (K15 (15, 17, 17, 18), DD) 4 times, K17 (21, 21, 23, 24).
Rows 32 - 34: St st.
Row 35: K16 (20, 20, 22, 23), DD (K13 (13, 15, 15, 16), DD) 4 times, K16 (20, 20, 22, 23). (89, 97, 105, 109, 115 sts).
Next Row (WS): P43 (47, 51, 53, 56), P2tog, purl to end. (88, 96, 104, 108, 114 sts).
Work 12 rows stocking stitch, beginning with a knit row.
Continue in stocking stitch, and begin increasing 1 st at beginning and end of next row, and on every following 6th (6th, 6th, 8th, 8th) row until there are 104 (112, 120, 124, 130) sts on the needle. Work without further shaping until Back measures 34 (34, 35.5, 37, 37) cm (13.5, 13.5, 14, 14.5, 15 inches) from picot row, ending with a WS row.
Shape Armholes
Cast off 3 sts at beginning of next 4 rows, then decrease 1 st at both ends of next row and following alternate (RS) rows until 82 (90, 98, 102, 108) sts remain. Work until armhole measures 18 (18, 18, 19, 20) cm (7, 7, 7, 7.5, 8 inches).
Shape Shoulder
First and Third Sizes only
Cast off 8 (9) sts at beginning of next 4 rows, then 7 (10) sts at beginning of foll 2 rows. Cast off remaining 36 (42) sts.
Second and Fourth Sizes only
Cast off 9 (10) sts at beginning of next 6 rows. Cast off remaining 36 (42) sts.
Fifth Size only
Cast off 10 sts at beginning of next 2 rows, then 11 sts at beginning of foll 4 rows. Cast off remaining 44 sts.
Right Front
Cast on 81 (85, 89, 91, 94) sts with 3.25 mm (US 4) needles, and work as for back until double decreasing.
Row 1: (RS) K24 (26, 27, 28, 29) DD, K27 (27, 29, 29, 30), DD, K24 (26, 27, 28, 29).
Rows 2 - 4: Stocking st (always beginning with a purl row)
Row 5: K23 (25, 26, 27, 28), DD, K25 (25, 27, 27, 28), DD, K23 (25, 26, 27, 28). Rows 6 - 10: St st.
Row 11: K22 (24, 25, 26, 27), DD, K23 (23, 25, 25, 26), DD, K22 (24, 25, 26, 27).
Rows 12 - 16: St st.
Row 17: K21 (23, 24, 25, 26), DD, K21 (21, 23, 23, 24), DD, K21 (23, 24, 25, 26).
Rows 18 - 22: St st.
Row 23: K20 (22, 23, 24, 25), DD, K19 (19, 21, 21, 22), DD, K20 (22, 23, 24, 25).
Rows 24 - 26: St st.
Row 27: K19 (21, 22, 23, 24), DD, K17 (17, 19, 19, 20), DD, K19 (21, 22, 23, 24).
Rows 28 - 30: St st.
Row 31: K18 (20, 21, 22, 23), DD, K15 (15, 17, 17, 18), DD, K18 (20, 21, 22, 23).
Rows 32 - 34: St st.
Row 35: K17 (19, 20, 21, 22), DD, K13 (13, 15, 15, 16), DD, K17 (19, 20, 21, 22). (49, 53, 57, 59, 62 sts).
Purl 1 row. On next row begin moss stitch front band.
Row 1 (RS): P1, (K1, P1) twice, knit to end.
Row 2: Purl to last 4 sts, (K1, P1) twice.
Repeat these 2 rows 5 times more.
This sets the moss stitch front edge. On next row begin increasing at the side seam. Increase 1 st at end of next row (RS), and every foll 6th (6th, 6th, 8th, 8th) row until there are 57 (61, 65, 67, 70) sts on the needle. Work without further shaping until front measures 34 (34, 35.5, 37, 37) cm (13.5, 13.5, 14, 14.5, 15 inches) from picot row, ending with a WS row.
Shape Armholes
Cast off 3 sts at beginning of next row, and following alternate row (51, 55, 59, 61, 64 sts).
Next Row (RS): Moss 5, knit to end.
Next Row: P2tog, purl to last 4 sts, (K1, P1), twice.
Repeat these last two rows until 44 (48, 52, 54, 57) sts are on the needle. Continue on these stitches until armhole measures 10 cm (4 inches) ending with a WS row.
Shape Neck
Cast off 6 sts at beginning of next row, and work to end. Decrease 1 st at neck edge of every row until 23 (28, 28, 30, 32) sts remain. Work straight until armhole measures 18 (18, 18, 19, 20) cm (7, 7, 7, 7.5, 8 inches) ending with a RS row.
Shape Shoulder
First and Third Sizes only
Cast off 8 (9) sts at beginning of next and following alternate row, then cast off remaining 7 (10) sts at beginning of following alternate (WS) row.
Second and Fourth Sizes only
Cast off 9 (10) sts at beginning of next and following two alternate rows.
Fifth Size only
Cast off 10 sts at beginning of next row, then 11 sts at beginning of foll two alternate rows.
Left Front
Work as for Right Front to the end of double decreasing, but do not purl next row as for right front.
Next Row (WS): K1, (P1, K1) twice, purl to end.
Next Row: Knit to last 4 sts, (P1, K1) twice.
Repeat these 2 rows 5 times more.
This sets the moss stitch front edge. Work 1 row straight. On next row begin increases at side seam. Increase 1 st at end of next row (RS), and every foll 6th (6th, 6th, 8th, 8th) row until there are 57 (61, 65, 67, 70) sts on the needle. Work without further shaping until front measures 34 (34, 35.5, 37, 37) cm (13.5, 13.5, 14, 14.5, 15 inches) from picot row, ending with a WS row.
Shape Armholes
Cast off 3 sts at beginning of next row, and following alternate row (51, 55, 59, 61, 64 sts).
Next Row (RS): Moss 5, knit to end.
Next Row: P2tog, purl to last 4 sts, (K1, P1), twice.
Repeat these last two rows until 44 (48, 52, 54, 57) sts are on the needle. Continue on these stitches until armhole measures 10 cm (4 inches) ending with a RS row.
Shape Neck
Cast off 6 sts at beginning of next row, and work to end. Decrease 1 st at neck edge of every row until 23 (28, 28, 30, 32) sts remain. Work straight until armhole measures 18 (18, 18, 19, 20) cm (7, 7, 7, 7.5, 8 inches) ending with a WS row.
Shape Shoulder
First and Third Sizes only
Cast off 8 (9) sts at beginning of next and following alternate row, then cast off remaining 7 (10) sts at beginning of following alternate row.
Second and Fourth Sizes only
Cast off 9 (10) sts at beginning of next and following two alternate rows.
Fifth Size only
Cast off 10 sts at beginning of next row, then 11 sts at beginning of foll two alternate rows.
Sleeves (Make 2)
Cast on 24 sts with 3.25 mm (US 4) needles and purl 1 row through back of stitches.
Increase Row (RS): Knit into front and back of every st. (48 sts).
Continue to increase as follows:
Row 1 (WS): Purl into front and back of first st, purl to last st, purl into front and back of st.
Row 2: Inc in first st, knit to last st, inc 1.
Work as set until 114 sts are on the needle. Work straight for approximately 28 cm (11 inches), (or until desired length), ending with a WS row.
Row 1 (RS): K6, K2tog, *K5, K2tog, repeat from * to last st , K1 (98 sts).
Commencing with a purl row work 3 rows in St st.
Row 2: *K5, K2tog, repeat from * to end (84 sts).
Work 1 purl row.
Row 3: *K3, K2tog, repeat from * to last 4 sts, K2, K2tog. (67 sts).
Work in moss stitch on these stitches for 12 rows, ending with a RS row. Cast off knitwise on next row.
To Make Up
Press all pieces under a damp cloth with a warm iron, omitting the moss stitch bands and cuffs. Sew down picot hem to WS, and join shoulder seams.
Tie (for Collar)
Cast on 2 sts using 3.5 mm (US 5) needles.
Row 1 (RS): K1, P1.
Row 2: Inc in first st, K1 (3 sts).
Row 3: K1, P1, inc in last st. (4 sts).
Row 4: Inc in first st, K1, P1, K1 (5 sts).
Row 5: (K1, P1) twice, inc in last st (6 sts).
Row 6: Inc in first st, K1, (P1, K1) twice (7 sts).
Row 7: Work as established in moss st, inc in last st (8 sts).
Row 8: Inc in first st, work to end (9 sts).
Change to 3.25 mm (US 4) needles and work in moss st until piece measures 18 cm (7 inches) ending with a WS row. On next row the increases will form the collar, to be attached to the neckline.
Collar
Row 1 (RS): Knit into front, back and front again of first st, work to end (11 sts).
Row 2: Work 1 row.
Row 3: As Row 1 (13 sts).
Continue on these stitches until the collar fits around the neckline when slightly stretched, ending with row 3.
Now decrease for the 2nd tie:
Row 1 (WS): SL1, K2tog, psso, work to end (11 sts).
Row 2: Work 1 row.
Row 3: As row 1 (9 sts).
Work until tie measures 18 cm (7 inches). Change to 3.5 mm (US 5) needles, and decrease as for first tie, reversing decreases. Cast off.
Sew straight edge of Collar around neck, parallel with increases.
Set in the sleeves, easing in fullness round the top. Sew up the sleeve and side seams.
Bow
Cast on 10 sts using 3.25 mm (US 4) needles and work in moss stitch for approximately 20 cm (8 inches). Cast off.
Strap
Cast on 5 sts using 3.25 mm US 4) needles and work in K1, P1 rib for 5 cm (2 inches). Cast off.
Sew cast on and cast off edges of bow together, gathering it slightly. Wrap strap around centre tightly and sew at join. Attach bow to one edge of petersham ribbon, and sew 2 press studs to each side to fasten at waist. Space 6 remaining press studs (or hooks and eyes) along front bands to finish, avoiding the 12 rows of waistband for belt.
You can see more of Theodora's life and work at www.myspace.com/misstheodora
This pattern is not to be used commercially or to be resold.
Copyright © Theodora Burrow 2008, Multi-sized pattern Copyright © knitonthenet 2009
|
 |
