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Design Story

Truffle I have been fascinated by the recent revival in sweater dresses and have been delighted to see them all over the catwalks and the high street. I have also been 'going on' for some time about wanting to see colour knitting making a return and it finally seems to be catching on, particularly geometric prints. All these ideas and the 80s fashion revival merged together in Truffle, using a cashmere and hemp mix yarn it is soft against the skin but with the hemp enabling the stitches to retain structure which enhances the clean, geometric design across the top of the sweater. This sweater is really versatile, suitable for layering, being worn straight and long over the thighs with a belt, or pouched over the deep rib at the hip, most definitely both a sweater and a dress. To keep this versatility I decided rather than have a polo neck which can be restrictive at times, to knit a separate cowl neck which can be worn if needed but left off if not. This, combined with the beautiful yarn, makes this garment wearable in all seasons. I called the design Truffle, not just because of the colour combination, but also for the mix of hemp and cashmere - the strong and the soft - the crisp chocolate exterior and the luxurious softness of the filling.

Materials

Truffle Lana Knits Cashmere Canapa, 60% cotton, 30% cashmere, 10% hemp, 110 metres (120 yds) per 50 gm ball
10 balls shade 34 (espresso) - yarn A
3 balls shade 30 (latte) - yarn B

3.25 mm (US #4)circular needles
3.75 mm (US #5) circular needles

Measurements

One size (underarm chest measurement 99 cm (39 inches)

Incredibly forgiving fit, this sweater will fit from a 81 cm (32 inch) to a 107 cm (42 inch) chest. If necessary, cast on more sts in multiples of 6, but ensure that at armholes only increase to 165 sts.

The body is worked in the round to the armhole from the bottom up, enabling the knitter to make any length to suit.

Tension

22sts x 34 rows = 10 cm (4 inches) over stocking stitch using 3.75 mm (US #5) needles

Truffle

Body

Cast on 222 sts using 3.25 mm (US #4) circular needle and yarn A. Join, taking care not to twist work.

Round 1: (K1, P1), repeat to end of round, placing markers after 111 sts and 222 sts respectively.

Work 4 more rounds.

Next round: (K3, P3) rep to end of round.

Repeat this round until work measures 5 inches (12.5 cm) from cast on edge.
Change to 3.75mm (US #5) circular needle and commencing with a knit round, work in stocking stitch until work measures 16 inches (40.5 cm).

Divide for armholes

Work front and back separately.
Knit 111 sts and place remaining sts on to waste yarn. Turn and cast on 27 sts. Purl these 27 sts and 111 sts on needle (139 sts), turn and cast on 27 sts. Knit across all 165 sts.

Work without further shaping until work measures 7 inches (17.5 cm) from sleeve cast on, ending with a purl row. Change to yarn B and work 2 rows in st st.

Chart

Work 43 rows from chart, repeating 5 times across row, using fairisle method.

Using yarn A only, and with 3.25 mm (US #4) needles work 4 rows of K3, P3 rib, increasing one st at each end of row and one at centre. (168 sts)

Leave sts on a spare needle.

Work back to match front.

Turn work inside out and join shoulder seams using three needle bind off method, as follows:
Cast off 48 sts in rib. ON BACK NECK ONLY CAST OFF CENTRE 72 STS IN RIB. Rejoin yarn to front immediately after three needle bind off and cast off next 72 sts. Working front and back together, cast off rem 48 sts using three needle bind off method.

Truffle

Sleeve edgings

Using 3.25 mm circular needle, pick up 144 sts. Work 4 rows of K3, P3 rib. Cast off in rib.

Join underarm seams. Darn in all ends.

Separate Cowl

Worked completely in the round.
Using 3.25 mm (US #4) circular needle and yarn B, cast on 168 sts. Join into round, taking care not to twist sts. Work in K3, P3 rib until work measures 12 inches (30 cm). Cast off in rib.

 

This pattern is not to be used commercially or to be resold.  Copyright © Just call me Ruby 2008

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Photography: Susan Crawford
Model: Helen Mulcahey