Design Story

Gansey knitting is a traditional skill, the patterns were passed down through families orally and tended not to be written down. The gansey is knitted 'in the round' beginning at the bottom of the welt, which is sometimes knitted in double yarn for extra strength. The patterns are unique to each village with variations of the design within families. The skill was handed down from mother to daughter and sometimes the men knitted ganseys too. Most men had a gansey for work on the boats and another for Sunday best. The construction of the garment means there is no sewing up, they are knitted in one piece, with a gusset under the arms for a closer fit to the body. The sleeves are knitted downwards from the shoulder, and for the working ganseys the sleeves were knitted shorter so the salt water did not degrade the wool at the cuffs. If the lower edge of the sleeve wore out, it was simple to pull out the worn part and knit again with spare wool. Please remember that when you are knitting a gansey it will EVOLVE, and once you get used to the construction of these garments you can adapt them to fit, use your own charts, and basically make them up as you go along! The written pattern is meant only as a guide to get you started.

It is said that if a fisherman dies at sea, he can be identified by his gansey even if his body is washed up miles away. They are so durable that they will last a lifetime. I hope you enjoy knitting yours!

Materials

2 X 500g cones 5ply gansey wool.

Circular needle 80 cm (30 inches) long OR five long (76 cms/30 inch approx) double pointed needles size 2.75 mm (US #2).
Four shorter double pointed needles size 2.75 mm (US #2) for sleeves and neck.
Pair 2.75 mm (US #2) straight knitting needles.
Stitch holders (at least four).

Size

Finished size 112cms (44 inches) around chest. We have shown this garment modelled on a man and a woman to show how the one size can suit different body shapes, however if a smaller size is required, use above needles size 2.25 mm (US #1)).

Pattern

Using 2.75 mm (US #2) needles cast on 328 sts using thumb method. Divide onto four needles with 82sts on each (using fifth needle to knit with), or circular needle. Work 7 cms in K2, P2 rib, taking care not to twist the sts on first row when joining into a circle.

Next Row: K162, P2, K162, P2.
Repeat last row until work measures 8cms (3 inches) from top of rib.

Keeping P2 sts at sides throughout:
complete chart 1, then
complete chart 2
Repeat these 2 charts twice more.

Underarm Gusset

Row 1: K2, P158 (as first row of chart 1), K2, increase purlwise in next two purl sts, K2, P158, K2, increase purlwise in next two sts.
Row 2: K2, moss st 158sts (as second row of chart one), K2, P1, K2, P1, K2, moss st 158 sts, K2, P1, K2, P1.
Row 3: as row 2.
Row 4: as row 2.
Row 5: K2, moss st 158 sts, K2, P1, increase in next two sts, P1, K2, moss st 158 sts, K2, P1, increase in next two sts, P1.
Row 6: K2, moss st 158 sts, K2, P1, K4, P1, K2, moss st 158 sts, K2, P1, K4, P1.
Keeping chart order and gusset sts as set, continue increasing one st either side of each gusset until each gusset contains 1 purl, 16 knit, 1 purl.

Divide for Front and Back

Care must be taken to adapt chart to 2-way knitting.
Continue on front in chart order thus:
K2, K158 from chart, K2. Place all other sts including both sets of gusset sts onto spare needles. (I usually place onto a spare circular needle as there are a lot of sts).

Continue on two needles alternating chart one and two until armhole measures 18 cms (7 inches) and the centre purl row of chart two has been worked.

Divide for neck

Pattern 54 sts, turn and finish chart two. Work 10 rows of chart one. Break yarn. Place these 54 sts onto a stitch holder.

Place centre 54 sts onto a stitch holder. Rejoin yarn to second shoulder and complete to match first shoulder. Break yarn and place 54sts onto a stitch holder.

Back

Place both sets of gusset sts (P1, K16, P1) onto stitch holders.
Complete back to match front. Graft together front and back shoulders.

Neck

Slip 54 ts from one stitch holder onto needle, pick up and knit 25 sts evenly across shoulder, slip 54 sts onto needle from second stitch holder onto needle, pick up and knit 25 sts evenly across second shoulder. (158 sts). Divide sts onto shorter set of ouble pointed needles and work 5cms in K2, P2 rib. Cast off very loosely in rib.

Sleeves

Pick up 112 sts evenly around sleeve and divide between four needles. Pick up gusset sts.
Keeping gusset sts as set P1 row.

Follow chart two then chart one decreasing 1 knit st at each end of gusset sts every fourth row until 4 sts remain. (P1, K2, P1.)
On following fourth row P2 tog (twice).
When chart one has been completed, continue every row knit with 2 purl sts at centre of underarm. Decrease 1 knit st at each side of P2 sts on every 6th row until 84 sts. Knit straight until sleeve is required length minus 8 cms (3 inches). K2, P2, rib for 8 cms (3 inches) and cast off loosely in rib.

Complete second sleeve to match.

NO SEWING UP! - Just weave in your loose ends.

Also see in this issue Paula's article The Rocket Crew and their Ganseys.

This pattern is not to be used commercially or to be resold.  Copyright © Paula Chew 2008