knitonthenet :: Taj Mahal

Tajmahal

Design Story

The idea for this summery top had been percolating in my head for a little while before it was actualized. I had visions of the 60's, long flowing locks and music festivals in mind whilst sketching for it.

I wanted something fairly free flowing with some well defined lace at the upper body and hem. When I spotted the Persian lace from Barbara Walker's Treasury of Knitting Patterns it seemed to fit well into my vision. The beautiful curved outline of this lace is evocative of the temples of the East. Due to this Eastern reference I decided to name this top Taj Mahal, which is also the name of one of my favourite bands!

This piece is worked in the round bottom up starting with a provisional/invisible cast on and dividing at the armholes to work front and back separately. The shoulders are joined with a three-needle bind off and stitches are picked up around the armholes for cap sleeves. A delicate, easy to work, edging is attached to the hem by way of the provisional cast on and is joined as the edging is being worked.

Materials

2.75mm (US #2) 32 inch (80 cm) circular
2.75mm (US #2) 40 inch (100 cm) circular - (Optional - for making sizes G-L as there will be more stitches on the needle).
2.75mm (US #2) 16 inch (40 cm) circular
1 set of 2.75mm (US #2) DPN'S - (Optional - can be used for 3 needle bind off at shoulders, but directions for doing it without are also given).
Stitch Markers
Row Counter
Stitch Holders / scrap yarn - (Optional I have given instructions for knitting without holders by keeping held sts on the needles but if you prefer you can use holders)

Yarn

Habu-A-4 "kusaki zome" naturally dyed silk (100% Silk)
155yds / 139m / 28gm
6 (6, 7, 7, 8, 8, 8, 9, 9, 9, 10, 10) Balls

Finished Dimensions

A B C D E F G H I J K L

Actual size (inches) 31.25 33.5 35.5 37.5 39.75 42 44 46.25 48.25 50.5 52.5 54.5

Actual size (cm) 80 85 90 95 101 107 112 117.5 122.5 128 133 138

To fit size (inches) 32 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54

To fit size (cm) 81 86 92 97 102 107 112 117 122 127 132 137

Sizes are referred to in the pattern as A (B, C, D, E, F, G, H, I, J, K, L)

The garment is intended to be work with no ease. The size shown in the photographs is B to fit a 34 inch (86 cm) chest (Actual size 33.5 inches/85 cm).

Tension

30 sts x 40 rows = 4 inches (10 cm) using 2.75mm (US #2) needles in stocking stitch.

Pattern Notes

Three-Needle Bind Off

You will have two needles (one behind the other) holding the sets of stitches to be joined with right sides facing each other. Insert a third needle (this can be a separate DPN or you can use the other end of one of the circulars holding the stitches) into first st on front needle and first st on back needle, and knit them together. *Repeat this for the next st on the front and back needles. Draw the first st worked over the second st.*

Repeat from * to * until the desired number of sts have been bound off. Break yarn and draw through remaining st.

Short Rows

For right side rows work to turning point, slip 1 st purlwise, bring yarn to front of work, slip st back to left needle and move yarn to the back of the work and turn.

For wrong side rows work to turning point, slip 1 st purlwise, move yarn to back of work, slip st back to left needle and bring yarn to front of work and turn.

To pick up wraps on the right side, work to the wrapped st and insert the right needle under the wrap and knit it together with the st on the needle.

To pick up wraps on the wrong side, work to the wrapped st and with the right needle pick up the wrap from behind and place it on the left needle. Purl the wrap and wrapped st together.

Provisional or open Cast On

(Taken from The Knitter's Companion by Vicki Square)

To begin, knot the working yarn to about a yard's worth of waste yarn. Use your right thumb to hold the knot against the knitting needle in your right hand

Hold the yarns in your left hand as you would for long tail cast on, with the working yarn over the needle and the waste yarn over your thumb.
Work as for the long tail method, inserting the right needle up into the waste yarn on your thumb, around the working yarn on your index finger, and down through waste yarn loop on your thumb.
Remove your thumb from the loop and pull the needle gently to adjust tension. Repeat for the desired number of stitches.

Written instructions for

(A) Persian Lace in the round (8 stitch repeat)

Rnd 1+2: *P3, K2, P3, rep from *.
Rnd 3: *P2, K2tog, YO, SSK, P2, rep from *.
Rnd 4: *P2, K1, K into front & back of next st, K1, P2, rep from *.
Rnd 5: *P1, K2tog, YO, K2, YO, SSK, P1, rep from *.
Rnd 6: *P1, K6, P1, rep from *.
Rnd 7: *(K2tog, YO) twice, SSK, YO, SSK, rep from*.
Rnd 8: *K3, K into front and back of next st, K3, rep from *.
Rnd 9: *(YO, SSK) twice, K2tog, YO, K2tog, rep from *.
Rnd 10: *K into front and back of next st, K6, rep from *.
Rnd 11: *P2, YO, sl 1-K2tog-psso, YO, K3tog, YO, rep from * (don't forget last YO).
Rnd 12: *P2, P1b, K1, K into front and back of next st, K1, P1b, rep from *. At the end of this round remove marker, slip 1 st, replace marker.
Rnd 13: *P2, YO, SSK, K2tog, YO, P2, rep from *.
Rnd 14: *P2, P1b, K2, P1b, P2, rep from *.
Rnd 15: rep rnd 1
Rnd 16: rep rnd 2 and at the same time dec 10 sts by purling two stitches together in the purl sections of the pattern, spacing them as evenly as possible around.

(B) Persian lace knitting back and forth

Row 1: P4, *K2, P6, rep from * to last 6 sts, K2, P4.
Row 2: K4, P2, *K6, P2, rep from * end K4.
Row 3: P3, *K2tog, YO, SSK, P4, rep from * end last rep P3.
Row 4: K3, *P1, K into front and back of next st, P1, K4, rep from * end last rep K3.
Row 5: P2, *K2tog, YO, K2, YO, SSK, P2, rep from *.
Row 6: K2, *P6, K2, rep from *.
Row 7: P1, *(K2tog, YO) twice, SSK, YO, SSK, rep from * end P1.
Row 8: K1, P3, *knit into front and back of next st, P6, rep from * end last rep P3, K1.
Row 9: P1, *(YO, SSK) twice, K2tog, yo, K2tog, rep from * end YO, P1.
Row 10: K1, K1b, P6, *knit into front and back of next st, P6, rep from *to last 2 sts, K1b, K1.
Row 11: P2, *YO, sl 1-K2tog-psso, YO, K3tog, YO, P2, rep from *.
Row 12: K2, *K1b, P1, knit into front and back of next st, P1, K1b, k2, rep from *.
Row 13: P3, *YO, SSK, K2tog, YO, P4, rep from * end last rep P3.
Row 14: K3, *K1b, P2, K1b, K4, rep from * end last rep K3.

Abbreviations

K2tog - Knit two stitches together.
YO - Yarn over, yarn forward or yarn round needle.
SSK - Slip, slip, knit - slip next 2 sts knitwise , insert left needle into front of these 2 sts from the left then K2tog.
Sl 1-K2tog-psso - Slip 1 stitch, knit two together, pass the slipped stitch over.
K3tog - Knit three stitches together.
PM - Place Marker.
K1b - Knit 1 stitch through the back of loop.
RS - Right side.
WS - Wrong side.
Sts - Stitches
W+T - Wrap and Turn

Pattern

Using the 32 inch (80 cm) circular (or 40 inch (100 cm) circular if making sizes G-L) and the provisional method of casting on (see notes), CO 264(280, 296, 312, 328, 344, 360, 376, 392, 408, 424, 440) sts, PM and join for working in the round being careful not to twist stitches.
Knit 4 rnds
Next work rnds 1-16 of Persian Lace version A
254(270, 286, 302, 318, 334, 350, 366, 382, 398, 414, 430) sts remain.

Next rnd: K126(134, 142, 150, 158, 166, 174, 182, 190, 198, 206, 214), P1 (this will be a fake seam stitch), PM, K to 1 st before beginning of rnd marker, P1 (second fake seam stitch).
(Note: Purled seam stitches are maintained throughout the body to the beginning of the armhole shaping).

Knit every rnd (purling the seam stitches) for 6 rnds.
Dec Rnd: *K2tog, knit to 3 sts before next marker, SSK, P1, slip marker, rep from * once more. 4 sts dec, 250(266, 282, 298, 314, 330, 346, 362, 378, 394, 410, 426) sts remain.

Repeat dec rnd every 16th(16th, 16th, 16th, 18th, 18th, 18th, 18th, 20th, 20th, 20th, 20th) rnd 4 more times. 234(250, 266, 282, 298, 314, 330, 346, 362, 378, 394, 410) sts remain.
Use row counter to keep track of how many rnds have been worked.

Work even, knitting every rnd (purling seam stitches) for 30(30, 30, 30, 32, 32, 32, 32, 34, 34, 34, 34) rnds.

Divide for Front and Back

Next rnd: Knit to 6(7, 7, 8, 8, 9, 9, 10, 10, 11, 11, 12) sts before side seam marker, BO 11(13, 13, 15, 15, 17, 17, 19, 19, 21, 21, 23) sts, knit to 6(7, 7, 8, 8, 9, 9, 10, 10, 11, 11, 12) sts before end of rnd BO 11(13, 13, 15, 15, 17, 17, 19, 19, 21, 21, 23) sts (this will take you across beginning of rnd marker). Don't break yarn.
There should be two sets of 106(112, 120, 126, 134, 140, 148, 154, 162, 168, 176, 182) sts for back and front. You can put one set on a holder or just leave them on the needle whilst working the other set.

Back

Continue where yarn is attached. There should be 1 st on the RH needle after final armhole bind off, leave this stitch where it is and continue as follows:
Dec Row (RS): K2tog, knit to last 3 sts of back, SSK, K1.
Next Row(WS): Purl.
Repeat decrease row every RS row another 4(5, 6, 7, 10, 11, 13, 14, 16, 17, 19, 20) times working decreases 1 st in from each edge.
96(100, 106, 110, 112, 116, 120, 124, 128, 132, 136, 140) sts remain.
Continue in Stocking st for 58(58, 60, 60, 56, 56, 54, 54, 52, 52, 52, 52) rows ending with a WS row.

Back Right Shoulder

Row 1: Knit 12(14,17,19, 16, 18, 20, 22, 20, 22, 24, 26), K2tog, K1, turn leaving rest of stitches on the needles. (1 st decreased at neck edge)
Row 2: Purl back across 14(16, 19, 21, 18, 20, 22, 24, 22, 24, 26, 28) sts
Row 3: Knit 11(13, 16, 18, 15, 17, 19, 21, 19, 21, 23, 25), K2tog, K1,
Row 4: Purl back across to armhole edge.

Sizes G-L ONLY: Work two more rows decreasing 1 more stitch at neck edge as above.

All Sizes: 13(15, 18, 20, 17, 19, 21, 23, 21, 23, 25, 27) sts remain for right shoulder. Cut yarn leaving a long tail. Slip sts for right shoulder and the next 66(66, 66, 66, 74, 74, 74, 74, 82, 82, 82, 82) sts onto the right hand needle (or place these sts on a holder).

Back Left Shoulder

Rejoin yarn to left sholder with RS facing.
Row 1:K1, SSK, K12(14,17,19, 16, 18, 20, 22, 20, 22, 24, 26),
Row 2: Purl 14(16, 19, 21, 18, 20, 22, 24, 22, 24, 26, 28).
Row 3:K1, SSK, K11(13, 16, 18, 15, 17, 19, 21, 19, 21, 23, 25).
Row 4:Purl

Sizes G-L ONLY: Work two more rows decreasing 1 more stitch at neck edge as above.

All Sizes: 13(15, 18, 20, 17, 19, 21, 23, 21, 23, 25, 27) sts remain for left shoulder. Cut yarn leaving a tail.
Leave sts for back on the needle by slipping the sts of the left shoulder onto the RH needle or place all sts of back onto a holder.

Front

Re-join yarn to front beginning with a RS row.
Dec Row (RS): K1, K2tog, knit to last 3 sts of front, SSK, K1.
Next row(WS): Purl.

Sizes A-F ONLY: Repeat decrease row every RS row another 4(5, 6, 7, 10, 11) times working decreases 1 st in from each edge.
96(100, 106, 110, 112, 116) sts remain.
Work 14(16, 18, 18, 14, 14) more rows in Stocking st.
Place markers on the center 66(66, 66, 66, 74, 74) sts.
There should be 15(17, 20, 22, 19, 21, ) sts on either side of the marked off center sts.
Begin working Persian Lace Version B over the marked off center sts for a total of 3 repeats (42 rows of lace) and continue to keep the remaining sts either side in stockinette stitch.

Sizes G-L ONLY: Repeat decrease row every RS row another (12, 13, 14, 15, 17, 18) times
Place markers on the center (74, 74, 82, 82, 82, 82) sts
Next row (RS):Continue to decrease 1 st at each armhole edge every RS row (1, 1, 2, 2, 2, 2 ) more times and at the same time begin working Persian Lace Version B on the marked off center sts for a total of 4 repeats (56 rows of lace).
There should be (120, 124, 128, 132, 136, 140) sts after all the decreases have been worked with (23, 25, 23, 25, 27, 29) sts on either side of the marked off lace section.

Left Front Shoulder (All sizes)

Sizes G-L ONLY: Work two more rows decreasing 1 more stitch at neck edge as above.

All Sizes: 13(15, 18, 20, 17, 19, 21, 23, 21, 23, 25, 27) sts remain for left shoulder. Cut yarn leaving a long tail. Slip sts for left shoulder and the next 66(66, 66, 66, 74, 74, 74, 74, 82, 82, 82, 82) sts onto the right hand needle (or place these sts on a holder).

Right Front Shoulder (All sizes)

Rejoin yarn to right shoulder with RS facing.
Row 1: K1, SSK, K12(14,17,19, 16, 18, 20, 22, 20, 22, 24, 26),
Row 2: Purl 14(16, 19, 21, 18, 20, 22, 24, 22, 24, 26, 28).
Row 3: K1, SSK, K11(13, 16, 18, 15, 17, 19, 21, 19, 21, 23, 25).
Row 4: Purl

Sizes G-L ONLY: Work two more rows decreasing 1 more stitch at neck edge as above.

All Sizes: 13(15, 18, 20, 17, 19, 21, 23, 21, 23, 25, 27) sts remain for right shoulder. Cut yarn leaving a tail. Slip sts for front onto the 16 inch (40 cm) 2.75mm (US #2) circular and turn knitting inside out (so that right sides are facing each other) in preparation for the three-needle bind off.
With the back of the garment facing you, and using the tail already at shoulder, work the three-needle bind off (see notes) over 13(15, 18, 20, 17, 19, 21, 23, 21, 23, 25, 27) sts of right shoulder .
With the front of the garment facing you repeat three-needle bind off for left shoulder.
You will have 66 (66, 66, 66, 74, 74, 74, 74, 82, 82, 82, 82) sts on longer circular needle for back neck and 66 (66, 66, 66, 74, 74, 74, 74, 82, 82, 82, 82) sts on shorter circular needle for front neck. Turn work right side out again.

Neck Finishing

With front of garment facing you and using the 16-inch circular needle rejoin yarn at right front neck edge picking up and knitting 4 (4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 6, 6, 6, 6, 6, 6) sts to shoulder join, then picking up and knitting 4 (4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 6, 6, 6, 6, 6, 6) sts down right back neck edge, knit across 66 (66, 66, 66, 74, 74, 74, 74, 82, 82, 82, 82) sts being held for back and at the same time decrease 12 (12, 12, 12, 14, 14, 14, 14, 16, 16, 16, 16) sts as evenly as possible across these back neck sts, pick up and knit 4 (4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 6, 6, 6, 6, 6, 6) sts of back left neck edge to shoulder join, then pick up and knit 4(4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 6, 6, 6, 6, 6, 6) sts down left front neck edge, knit across 66 (66, 66, 66, 74, 74, 74, 74, 82, 82, 82, 82) sts being held for front and at the same time decrease 0 (0, 0, 0, 0, 8, 8, 8, 8, 12, 12, 12, 12) sts as evenly as possible across these front neck sts.
Bind off all sts until 1 st is left on the needle. Pick up 1 st from first bind off and work one extra bind off to create a smoother join. Cut yarn and pull through last stitch.

Armhole Edgings

Starting at center of underarm (to the left side of the purled seam stitch), using 2.75mm(US# 2) 16inch circular, re-join yarn and pick up and knit 5(6, 6, 7, 7, 8, 8, 9, 9, 10, 10, 11) sts across the bound off edge, 54(56, 58, 60, 62, 64, 66, 68, 70, 72, 74, 76) sts up back of armhole edge (this will be roughly 3 out of every 4 sts) to shoulder join, PM, pick up 54(56, 58, 60, 62, 64, 66, 68, 70, 72, 74, 76) sts down the front and then 5(6, 6, 7, 7, 8, 8, 9, 9, 10, 10, 11) sts at bound off edge (there will be a gap of 1 st where the seam st is). 118(124, 128, 134, 138, 144, 148, 154, 158, 164, 168, 174) sts on needles. Don't join work. Short Rows:
Pick up wraps as you go (see notes)

Row 1(WS): Purl to 9 (9, 9, 10, 10 , 10, 11, 11, 11, 12, 12, 12) sts past marker, W +T.
Row 2: Knit to 9 (9, 9, 10, 10 , 10, 11, 11, 11, 12, 12, 12) sts past marker, W+T.
Row 3: Purl to 18 (18, 18, 20, 20, 20, 22, 22, 22, 24, 24, 24) sts past marker W +T.
Row 4: Knit to 18 (18, 18, 20, 20, 20, 22, 22, 22, 24, 24, 24) sts past marker W +T.
Row 5: Purl to 27 (27, 27, 30, 30, 30, 33, 33, 33, 36, 36, 36) sts past marker W+T.
Row 6: Knit to 27 (27, 27, 30, 30, 30, 33, 33, 33, 36, 36, 36) sts past marker W +T.
Row 7: Purl to 36 (36, 36, 40, 40, 40, 44, 44, 44, 48, 48, 48) sts past marker W+T.
Row 8: Knit to 36 (36, 36, 40, 40, 40, 44, 44, 44, 48, 48, 48) sts past marker W +T.
Row 9: Purl to 45 (45, 45, 50, 50, 50, 55, 55, 55, 60, 60, 60) sts past marker W+T.
Row 10: Knit to 45 (45, 45, 50, 50, 50, 55, 55, 55, 60, 60, 60) sts past marker W +T.
Row11: Purl to 54 (54, 54, 60, 60, 60, 66, 66, 66, 72, 72, 72) sts past marker W+T.
Row 12: Knit 10 (10, 10, 12, 12, 12, 14, 14, 14, 16, 16, 16) sts, (K1, K1f & b) to 44 (44, 44, 48, 48, 48, 52, 52, 52, 56, 56, 56) sts past marker or 15 ( 18, 20, 19, 21, 24, 22, 25, 27, 26, 28, 31) sts before end of row, K10 (10, 10, 12, 12, 12, 14, 14, 14, 16, 16, 16), W+T.
Row 13: Purl to end.
BO all sts.

Hem Edging

(To work this edging you will be using the longer circular needle, which will be holding the live sts of the provisional cast on, and the shorter circular to work the edging rows. The two will be joined at the end of every RS row of edging)

Using the longer circular needle pick up the sts of the provisional cast on by carefully removing waste yarn and placing live sts onto the needle. There should be 264(280, 296, 312, 328, 344, 360, 376, 392, 408, 424, 440) sts.

Using the shorter circular needle cast on 11 sts.
Set up Row: Knit to last st, K2tog (last st of edging and first stitch of body). Turn work.
Use needle holding body sts to work across sts of edging on WS rows and use shorter circular to work across sts of edging on RS rows.

Row 1(WS): K3, (YO, SSK, K1) twice, (YO) twice, K1, (YO) twice, K1. All sts are now on longer circular.
Row 2(RS): (K2, P1) 4 times (treat Double YO as 2 sts), k2, k2tog (1 edging st with 1 body st).
Row 3: K3, YO, SSK, K1, YO, SSK, K7.
Row 4: Bind off 4 sts, K3, P1, K2, P1, K2, K2tog ((1 edging st with 1 body st).

Repeat these rows until all sts of body have been joined to edging. On the last repeat of Row 4 work a K3tog as there will be 1 extra body stitch.
Bind off edging sts and seam the two ends together.

Finishing

Weave in ends and block gently or according to the ball band instructions. The armhole edgings can be blocked more aggressively to stop them from curling in.

Photography: Susan Crawford,
Lauren McInerney
Model: Vikki Houldcroft