Pitti Immagine Filati July 2008

Trends for Autumn/Winter 09/10

An insider's guide to what to expect on the shelves of our LYS in a year's time. We are delighted that industry insider, Jane Green, has joined us a regular columnist, keeping us up to date with yarn trends.

This internationally renowned trade yarn fair is held twice a year at the Fortezza da Basso, in the beautiful mediaeval city of Florence, Italy. It showcases the finest collections of yarns from predominately Italian and European spinners. In recent years the spinners have faced huge challenges regarding the economic climate and competition from manufacturing in the Far East but despite this Pitti Filati remains an important influential event for fashion designers and buyers to attend.

On this occasion visitors were greeted with an amazing installation displaying Italian bicycles in the main courtyard.

Visit www.pittimmagine.com/en/fiere/filati to view a mini video of the show.

Turbo Natura

The theme of the trend area this season was 'turbo natura' which explored the relationship between nature and technology. The directional knitted fabrics were inspired by the colour stories 'Holographic Landscape', 'Magnetic Fruits', 'Silicon Sunset', 'Electric Salad' and' Iris Blue CDR' and were displayed in a futuristic forest environment. Metallic birds and insects settled on knitted trees and flowers while sounds of the forest and visuals of real birds added to the surreal sensory experience.

Eco... Equo... Friendly

Another key theme following on from the show last season which continues to explore and research yarns and processes associated with an ethical approach to production. Fibre producers and spinners are investing in the future by using better technology or biological/organic methods in production to minimise environmental damage. Natural dyeing techniques are being used where no chemical additives are required. Fibres such as cotton and cashmere as well as nylon and polyester are able to be recycled. Some fibres are naturally eco friendly. For example Alpaca is available in 22 natural shades and gives an extensive colour range without any need for dyeing. Organic linen is farmed on fields which are never treated with chemicals. Fair trade issues: where interest in people is just as important as respect for the environment.

Woolmark Prize

The instantly recognisable Woolmark logo was designed by Italian graphic designer Francesco Saroglia back in 1964 for the International Wool Secretariat (now Australian Wool Innovation). Its insignia can only be used on 100% wool products and since then more than 2 billion Woolmark labels have been applied. The inaugural Woolmark Prize for Fashion Creativity 2008 is designed to showcase young up and coming designers from around the world whilst promoting the importance of wool as fashion's fibre of choice. Ten selected finalists from China, Japan, Norway, England, Belgium, Germany and France were asked to design a capsule collection emphasizing the sensual and sculptural aspects of knit.

Visit www.woolmark.com/prize for more details.

Yarn Overview

Emphasis on luxury fibres: cashmere, mohair, alpaca, angora, baby camel. Also blended with silk or merino. Fine gauge through to chunky hand knits.

Tweed: Rustic looking yarns with luxury softness.

Simplicity: simple yarns, low twists, refined aspects.

Discreet sparkle: metallic binders, soft sparkle, shiny tape yarns.

Organic: greater choice of organic certified yarns.

Brushed: yarns with a slight brushed haze or fluffy appearance.

Boucle: lightweight fine and chunky types.

Fancy: yarns with crystals, chunky caterpillar chenilles, space dyed giant tape.

Stitch Overview

Traditional stitches/ cables: simpler yarns perfect for showing off traditional stitches like aran and cable patterns and clever fashioning details.

Lace: all over patterns/ borders/fashioning details, used in chunky and fine gauges.

Colour

Tones of grey through to black predominated the show and Designer shop windows. Best shown with accents of brights.

Tones of purple and berry colours.

Naturals used with green.

Solid colours/colour blocking

Slightly less of the space dyed/printed yarns.

Styling

Lots of variations of the knitted dress.

Volume and layering.

Long line coats/cardigans in fine and chunky weights.