From Catwalk to Cast On

Summer 2008

By Henrietta Dups

Henrietta gives you the low down on the latest fashion trends and how to interpret them with your knitting needles.

If you are anything like me, knitting takes a bit of a back burner in the summer months - days are filled with summer activities out in the sunshine; the last thing on my mind are major knitting projects or winter warmer woollies. This is, however, the perfect time for small and quick projects and I am drawn to jewellery, accessories and one essential summer garment which is rather tiny: the bikini. I must admit that my bikini obsession is equal to those knitters out there who are continuously knitting socks. I honestly believe that no woman on earth can ever own too many bikinis, and, luckily, they are a cinch to crochet or knit up. Plus they are perfect for all those outdoor summer activities in the sunshine.

I can have a new bikini ready by every weekend during summer and as they are such a small item they use minimal yarn, which also makes them rather affordable. I have bikini's for sunbathing in, social BBQ's, gardening in, lounging by the pool at the country club, beachside strolling, and some to actually get wet and swim in (note today there are a plethora of cotton lycra blend yarns out there which ensure your bikini actually retains its shape and stays on when it gets wet). I obviously also have the appropriate coordinates to go with all these bikini's: from mini skirts, wraps, short shorts, tunics, to kaftans, ponchos and sundresses, because I would hate to ever look indecent or underdressed.

On the catwalks Chanel favoured bikinis in denim with matching fitted jackets, while Pucci did a delightful 70's white crochet cutout one piece. Michael Kors teamed midriff ¾ sleeve tops with 1940's style bikini bottoms in citrine and lime stripes, all topped off with a gold leather skinny belt.

At Bottega Venetta texture was the key using ruffled fabric for a bandeau top and Ursula Andress-style belted boy leg bottoms.

When it comes to bikini's it is vital that no matter what the catwalk dictates in terms of cut and style, you should always opt for a style and cut that suits and flatters your figure. Rather that and go to town with the trendiest colours, fabrics, patterns and embellishments, than compromise on cut, fit and style for the sake of fashion. Another little tip is to always wear your bikini one size up from your normal dress size; fashion editors will always call in bikini's for fashion shoots in a size 12 for their size 10 models, this ensures the bikini does not cut into the flesh making you appear larger than you actually are.

Flexible fashions' 2 in 1 bikini is one of my favourites this season as it not only combines the lace and floral trend with its six petal floral crochet design, but can also be made to fit any size.

To recreate the Emilio Pucci Cut-out Crochet One piece look why not try combining the Drops Crochet bikini top with tassels (# 95-26) with the bottoms of the Flexible Fashions 2in1 bottoms in a white cotton with lycra blend yarn.

At www.knitwhits.com designer, Tina Whitmore has some gorgeous and very stylish bikini's with a bit more coverage, perfect for the fuller figure or for those wanting to disguise their stomach. My favourites are Moray and Naima. For that real style edge make it up in one of this season's key colours: fuschia, yellow, lilac or turquoise. For a classic yet dramatic effect make up Naima in a black & white checkerboard effect.

For those of you with a figure to die for and nothing to hide Nexstitch' s cute yet minimal crochet 'Surfer' triangle string bikini is definitely a must have this season. Crochet a set in each major colour way this season and then mix and match.

Finally if you find that this bikini thing is becoming a bit of an obsession then I recommend you invest in Sexy Little Knits by Ashley Paige which features page after page of sexy bikinis and some very cute 'Roller Girl' style micro mini jumpsuits and shorts. Did I mention Carmen Electra is a fan...

Moving onto something a little more covering, I decided to focus on trends which will continue into Autumn, as I prefer my garments to have a bit of longevity. Let's face it, with so much sunshine to distract you, some of these may not get finished in time for summer! That said, they will work perfectly for autumn.

Not for the faint hearted, Balenciaga's rather exaggerated silhouette and floral prints really encapsulated some of the key catwalk trends this season; puff sleeve shoulders as seen at Valentino, Malandrino, Andrew Gn, Galliano and Iceberg, cinched waists (see my spring 08 column), thigh baring tunics / mini dresses as spied at Kenzo, Emilio Pucci, Miu Miu, Malo and Missoni, and the floral prints featured in Dries Van Noten, Gucci, Marni and Dolce & Gabanna's shows. For a wearable version of these looks try teaming the Miss Scarlet top by Just call me Ruby with the Eleanor mini skirt by Biggan Design in a citrine or yellow 8 ply Merino Biggan Design yarn (perfect for those cool summer evenings). For a bit of Valentino contrast, add a smattering of jacaranda, lilac and purple Flower Power brooches to the neckline.

Kimono style sleeves were seen everywhere this season whether it be a chic white chunky knit top at Pringle, black and white belted coat dresses at Andrew Gn, silk floral tunics at Kenzo, or the black and white trimmed belted jacket at Jonathan Saunders.

The Wink wrap cardigan from our spring 08 issue has a wonderful kimono style feel to it and would look gorgeous in a black yarn with a white yarn trim on the sleeves and around the hem and bold white buttons on the side, co-ordinate with a white obi style belt for real pop.

The runways of Cavali, Stella McCartney, Pucci, Prada and Ralph Lauren saw a return to the heady, carefree days of the swinging 60's and 70's. Bold floral prints, fringing, lace, crochet, belted tunics, micro minis, high waisted, laced up belts, cloche style headwear, head bands and scarves were de rigeur. To tap into this trend try out one of our many 70's inspired patterns from this issue. My favourites would have to be the gold crochet earrings 'Delilah' and the 'Fudge' belt, which is not so different from this design by Balmain.

Another favourite is the Barbarella tunic from the Spring 08 issue. Spot on trend-wise, it is a genuinely versatile garment for summer. Knit it up in white silk yarn and you can take it from beach cover in the morning over a bikini with flip flops, to white jeans with ballet flats for lunch with friends, and, for night time glamour co-ordinate with a wide waist belt, stilettos, chandelier earrings and work that tan. The best bit about a tunic is that it is a multi seasonal garment and as the weather gets cooler you can continue to wear it by layering it over other clothing.

Finally, the ultimate garment from this summer's Hippy Revival trend would have to be Balmain's white crochet A-line mini dress. A dress so special that in my mind it evokes fantasies of sitting in a Tuscan field making daisy chains, a Cote d'Azur wedding, clubbing in Ibiza, or a nice Garden party in Chelsea. This is the sort of dress that dreams come true in... now all I need to do is figure out how to make it...!

See Henrietta's Flower Power brooch pattern