The Little Black Dress

By Gudrun Johnston

(Intermediate in difficulty)

Sizes

To fit bust size 28-33(34-37) inches (due to the yarn and style of the dress at the bust area, the range of sizes it will fit is relatively wide).
Actual bust measurement: 28(30.5) inches
Length of skirt at beginning of empire line: approx 24.5 inches
Length at beginning of empire line if working tunic top: approx 10 inches

Materials list

Yarn: Elizabeth Lavold Hempathy (24% Hemp / 41% Cotton/ 25% Modal) 50g=140m/153 yds
For full dress: 10(11) balls of colour 01
For tunic: 6(7) balls of color 01

3.25mm (US #3) straight/dpns or any length of circular needle
3.5mm (US #4) 16, 32 and 40-inch circular needle
3.75mm (US #5) 24, 32 and 40-inch circular needle
Stitch Marker
Row Counter
Ribbon-Two, 2 yard strands of 4mm width in black or one 2 yard strand in 8mm width. Options for working the dress without the ribbon are given.

Tension required

28 sts & 44 rows = 4 inches (10cm) using 3.75mm (US #5) needles in Jacquard Stitch pattern and after blocking. Tension taken from a swatch worked over 46 sts and 72 rows. The tension in the swatch will be a little different to the tension of the finished dress. The extra weight of the completed dress will stretch the gauge a little. However, aim for the gauge of the swatch as given above.

Pattern Notes

NB options for working this as a tunic top are given (and yarn quantities). There is also an option for omitting the eyelet rnd for the ribbon.

This dress is worked from the top down starting with a provisional/open cast on at the shoulders. The back is worked first to the underarms with the two fronts being picked up from the provisional cast on and also worked to the underarms. The back and fronts are then united and worked back and forth to the empire line join. The skirt is worked entirely in the round. This dress could be turned into a tunic by only working the first panel of the skirt and then going straight to the hem.

For the sections that are worked flat there will be a selvedge stitch at each end of the row which should be knit on right sides and purled on wrong sides. Selvedge sts are not included in the written directions.

Increases

Increases are worked on right side rows using the raised increase method. To work this increase insert the right needle into the back of the loop of the stitch below, knit this stitch and then knit the stitch on the needle. Increases on slipped sts are worked the same way. Increases that come at the end of the row are worked into the selvedge by lifting the loop of the stitch below onto the left needle and knitting it and then the selvedge.

Provisional or open Cast On

(Taken from The Knitter's Companion by Vicki Square)
To begin, knot the working yarn to about a yard's worth of waste yarn. Use your right thumb to hold the knot against the knitting needle in your right hand

Hold the yarns in your left hand as you would for long tail cast on, with the working yarn over the needle and the waste yarn over your thumb.
Work as for the long tail method, inserting the right needle up into the waste yarn on your thumb, around the working yarn on your index finger, and down through waste yarn loop on your thumb.
Remove your thumb from the loop and pull the needle gently to adjust tension. Repeat for the desired number of stitches.

Cable Cast on

(Taken from The Knitter's Companion by Vickie Square)

Insert the right needle between the next two stitches on the needle and wrap it as if to knit.
Pull the loop forward.
Place the loop on the left needle. Continue in this fashion, working between the last two stitches on the needle until you have the desired number of stitches.

Jacquard Stitch Pattern:

(From Barbara Walker's A Second Treasury of Knitting Patterns)
Row 1 (RS): K1, * sl 2 wyif, k4; rep from *, to last 3sts, sl 2, k1.
Row 2: P1, sl 1 wyib, * p4, sl 2 wyib; rep from *, to last 2sts, p2.
Row 3: K3, * sl 2 wyif, k4; rep from *, to last st, k1.
Row 4: P4, * sl 2 wyib, p4; rep from * to end.
Row 5: K5, *sl 2 wyif, k4; rep from *, to last 5sts, sl 2 wyif, k3.
Row 6: P2, * sl 2 wyib, p4; rep from *, to last 2sts, sl 1 wyib, p1.
Row 7: Repeat row 1
Rows 8, 9, 10, 11 and 12: Repeat rows 6, 5, 4, 3 and 2

Abbreviations/definitions

CO - Cast on
K2tog - Knit two together
P2tog - Purl two together
Pm - place marker
Ssk - slip , slip , knit
Sl - slip stitch purlwise
Tbl - through the back loop
W+T - Wrap and turn. Slip the next stitch purlwise with yarn either in back or front as indicated in the directions, bring yarn to the opposite side of where it is,then slip the stitch back, return yarn to it's original side and turn work to knit in the opposite direction.
Wyif - with yarn in front
Wyib - with yarn in back
YO - yarn over

Pattern

Back

Using 3.75mm(US #5) 24-inch circular needle and working an invisible/open cast on, CO 78sts.
Next Row (RS): Knit.

Short Row section

Note: Wrap and turn with yarn in back on right side and yarn in front on wrong side unless indicated otherwise. Only pick up wrapped sts when indicated.

Next Row (WS): P56, W+T, k4, (sl 2 wyif, k4) 5 times, W+T, p3,(sl 2 wyib, p4) 5 times, sl 2 wyib, p3, W+T, k4, (sl 2 wyif, k4) 6 times (this time pick up the wrapped stitch by inserting the right needle under the wrap knitwise and then into the wrapped stitch and knit them together), sl 2 wyif, W+T, sl 1 wyib, p4, (sl 2 wyib, p4) 6 times, sl 2 wyib, p3, W+T, k4, (sl 2 wyif, k4) 7 times, sl 2 wyif, k2, W+T, p1, (sl 2 wyib, p4) 8 times, sl 2 wyib, p3, W+T, k4, (sl 2 wyif, k4) 9 times (pick up wrapped stitch as described before), W+T, sl 1 wyib, p4, (sl 2 wyib, p4) 9 times (pick up wrapped stitch by placing the wrap onto the left needle and purling it together with the wrapped stitch already on the needle), sl 2 wyib, p1, W+T wyib this time, (sl 2 wyif, k4) 11 times (pick up wrap as described the first time), W+T, sl 1 wyib, p4, *sl 2 wyib, p4; rep from * to end, with the last stitch being a selvedge stitch

Next Row: Selvedge st, k3, *sl 2 wyif, k4; rep from * to last 3 sts, pick up last wrap, k1, selvedge st.

Next Row: Selvedge st,p1, sl 1 wyib, * p4, sl 2 wyib; rep from * to last 3 sts, p2, selvedge st.

Work rows 1-12 of Jacquard Stitch Pattern 4 times remembering that the first and last stitch are selvedge sts and are not included in the stitch pattern. (48 rows worked)

Increasing for underarm begins:

Maintain selvedge sts which are not included in the written description below. Work increases inside the selvedge sts.
Row 1: Inc1, k1,*sl 2 wyif,k4; rep from *, to last 3sts, sl 2 wyif, k1, inc1.
Row 2: P1,* sl 2 wyib, p4; rep from * to last 5sts, sl 2 wyib, p3.
Row 3: Inc1, k4, * sl 2 wyif, k4; rep from *, to last 2sts, sl 2 wyif, inc1.
Row 4: *Sl 2 wyib, p4; rep from *, to last 2sts, sl 2 wyib.
Row 5: Inc1, k1, * sl 2 wyif, k4; rep from *, to last st, sl 1 wyif, inc1.
Row 6: Sl 1 wyib, p4, *sl 2 wyib, p4; rep from *, to last 5sts, sl 2 wyib, p3.
Row 7: Inc1, k4, *sl 2 wyif, k4; rep from *, to end, inc1.
Row 8: *sl 2 wyib, p4; rep from * to end.
Row 9: Inc1, k3, * sl 2 wyif, k4; rep from *, to last 3sts, sl 2 wyif, k1, inc1.
Row 10: P3, *sl 2 wyib, p4; rep from *, to last 5sts, sl 2 wyib, p3.
Row 11: Inc1, k2, * sl 2 wyif, k4; rep from * to end, inc1.
Row 12: *sl 2 wyib, p4; rep from * to last 4sts, sl 2 wyib, p2.

Repeat the last 12 rows once more. 24sts increased (102sts).
Cut yarn leaving a tail and place sts onto a scrap yarn, spare needle or stitch holder.

Right Front:

Using 3.25mm(US #3) needles, with right side of back facing and the open/invisible cast on at top of work, pick up 27 sts starting at the right edge. Carefully removewaste yarn and place live sts onto the needle. Don't remove waste yarn past these sts. The first and last sts are selvedge sts and should be kept in stockinette st.

Short row section: follow rules for wraps as for back.
Starting at armhole (right) edge join a new ball of yarn and work as follows:
Row 1: Knit across all sts then slip all sts back onto 3.75mm (US #5)
Row 2: P4, W+T, k4.
Row 3: P3, sl 2 wyib, p3, W+T, k4, sl 2 wyif, k2.
Row 4: P1, sl 2 wyib, p4, sl 2 wyib, p3, W+T, k4, sl 2 wyif, k4, sl 1 wyif, k1.
Row 5: P5, sl 2 wyib, p4, sl 2 wyib, p3, W+T, k4, (sl 2 wyif, k4) twice.
Row 6: P5, (sl 2 wyib, p4) twice (pickup purled wrap), sl 2 wyib, p1, W+T wyib this time, (sl 2 wyif, k4) 3 times, sl 1 wyif, k1.
Row 7: P1, * sl 2 wyib, p4; rep from * to end.
Row 8: K3, (sl 2 wyif, k4) 3 times, sl 2 wyif, k2.
Row 9: P3, (sl 2 wyib, p4) 3 times, sl 2 wyib p2.
End of short rows

Row 1: K1, *sl 2 wyif, k4; rep from * to end.
Row 2: P3, * sl 2 wyib, p4; rep from * to last 4 sts, sl 2 wyib, p2.
Row 3: K3, *sl 2 wyif, k4; rep from * to last 4 sts, sl 2 wyif, k2.
Row 4: P1, *sl 2 wyib, p4; rep from * to end.
Row 5: K5, * sl 2 wyif, k4; rep from * to last 2 sts, sl 2 wyif.
Row 6: P5, *sl 2 wyib, p4; rep from * to last 2 sts, sl 2 wyib.
Row 7: Repeat row 1.
Rows 8, 9, 10, 11 and 12 repeat rows 6, 5, 4, 3 and 2

Repeat the last 12 rows two more times.

Increase for neck edge begins

Row 1: K1, *sl 2 wyif, k4; rep from * to end inc1.
Row 2: P4, *sl 2 wyib, p4; rep from * to last 4sts, sl 2 wyib, p2
Row 3: K3, *sl 2 wyif, k4; rep from * to last 5sts, sl 2 wyif, k3, inc1.
Row 4: P3, * sl 2 wyib, p4; rep from * to end.
Row 5: K5, *sl 2 wyif, k4; rep from * to last 4sts, sl 2 wyif, k2, inc1.
Row 6: P2, *sl 2 wyib, p4; rep from * to last 2sts, sl 2 wyib.
Row 7: K1, *sl 2 wyif, k4; rep from * to last 3sts, sl 2 wyif, k1, inc1.
Row 8: P3, *sl 2 wyib, p4; rep from * to last 2sts, sl 2 wyib.
Row 9: K5, *sl 2 wyif, k4; rep from * to end, inc1.
Row 10: *sl 2 wyib, p4; rep from * to end.
Row 11: K3, *sl 2 wyif, k4; rep from * to last 3sts, sl 2 wyif, k1, inc1.
Row 12: P3, *sl 2 wyib, p4; rep from * to last 4sts, sl 2 wyib, p2.

6 sts increased at neck edge. 33sts on right front.

Increase for underarm begins and neck edge continues to increase

Row 1: Inc1, k1, *sl 2 wyif, k4; rep from * to end, inc1.
Row 2: P4, *sl 2 wyib, p4; rep from * to last 5sts, sl 2 wyib, p3.
Row 3: Inc1, k4,*sl 2 wyif, k4; rep from * to last 5sts, sl 2 wyif, k3, inc1.
Row 4: P3, *sl 2 wyib, p4; rep from * to last 2sts, sl 2 wyib.
Row 5: Inc1, k1, * sl 2 wyif, k4; rep from * to last 4sts, sl 2 wyif, k2, inc1.
Row 6: P2, * sl 2 wyib, p4; rep from * to last 5sts, sl 2 wyib, p3.
Row 7: Inc1, k4, *sl 2 wyif, k4; rep from * to last 3sts, sl 2 wyif, k1, inc1.
Row 8: P3, *sl 2 wyib, p4; rep from * to end.
Row 9: Inc1, k3, *sl 2 wyif, k4; rep from * to end, inc1.
Row 10: *sl 2 wyib, p4; rep from * to last 5sts, sl 2 wyib, p3.
Row 11: Inc1, k2, *sl 2 wyif, k4; rep from * to last 3sts, sl 2 wyif, k1, inc1.
Row 12: P3, *sl 2 wyib, p4; rep from * to last 4sts, sl 2 wyib, p2.

Repeat the last 12 rows once more.
Total of 30 sts increased. 57sts for right front. Cut yarn leaving tail and place sts on a holder.

Left Front

Using the 3.25mm(US #3) needles, with right side of back facing and the open/invisible cast on at top of work, pick up 27sts starting at the left edge. Carefully remove waste yarn and place live sts onto the needle. Don't remove waste yarn past these sts. The first and last sts are selvedge sts.

Short row section: follow rules for wraps as for back.
Starting at neck edge with right side facing, join a new ball of yarn and work as follows:
Row 1: Knit across all sts then slip all sts back onto 3.75mm (US #5) needles.
Row 2: Purl.
Row 3: K4, W+T, p4.
Row 4: Sl 2 wyif, k4, (pick up wrap), sl 2 wyif, W+T, sl 1 wyib, p4, sl 2 wib, p1.
Row 5: K2, sl 2 wyif, k4, sl 2 wyif, k2, W+T, p1, sl 2 wyib, p4. sl 2 wyib, p3.
Row 6: K4, (sl 2 wyif, k4) twice, (pick up wrap), W+T, sl 1 wyib, (p4, sl 2 wyib) twice, p3.
Row 7: K2, (sl 2 wyif, k4) 3 times, (pick up wrap), W+T, sl 1 wyib, p4, (sl 2 wyib, p4) twice, sl 2 wyib, p1.
Row 8: * sl 2 wyif, k4; rep from * to last st, (pick up last wrap), k1.
Row 9: *sl 2 wyib, p4; rep from * to last st, sl1 wyib.
End of short rows

Row 1: K4, *sl 2 wyif, k4; rep from * to last 3sts, sl 2 wyif, k1.
Row 2: * sl 2 wyifb, p4; rep from * to last st, sl1 wyib.
Row 3: *sl 2 wyif, k4; rep from * to last st, sl1 wyif.
Row 4: * p4, sl 2 wyib; rep from * to last st, p1.
Row 5: K2, *sl 2 wyif, k4; rep from * to last 5sts, sl 2 wyif, k3.
Row 6: P2, * sl2 wyib, p4; rep from * to last 5sts, sl 2 wyib, p3.
Row 7: Repeat row 1.
Rows 8, 9, 10, 11 and 12 repeat rows 6, 5, 4, 3 and 2.

Repeat last 12 rows two more times.

Increase for neck edge begins

Row 1: Inc1, k4, *sl 2 wyif, k4; rep from * to last 3sts, sl 2 wyif, k1.
Row 2: *sl 2 wyib, p4; rep from * to last 2sts, sl 2 wyib.
Row 3: Inc1, k1, *sl 2 wyif, k4; rep from * to last st, sl 1 wyif.
Row 4: *p4, sl 2 wyib; rep from * to last 3sts, p3.
Row 5: Inc1, k4, *sl 2 wyif, k4; rep from * to last 5sts, sl 2 wyif, k3.
Row 6: P2, * sl 2 wyib, p4; rep from * to last 2sts, sl 2 wyib.
Row 7: Inc1, k1, * sl 2 wyif, k4; rep from * to last 3sts, sl 2 wyif, k1.
Row 8: P2, * sl 2 wyib, p4; rep from * to last 3sts, sl 2 wyib, p1.
Row 9: Inc1, *sl 2 wyif, k4; rep from * to last 5sts, sl 2 wyif, k3.
Row 10: *p4, sl 2 wyib; rep from * to end.
Row 11: Inc1, sl 1 wyif, k4, * sl 2 wyif, k4; rep from * to last st, sl 1 wyif.
Row 12: * sl 2 wyib, p4; rep from * to last st, sl 1 wyib.

6 sts increased at neck edge. Total 33sts on left front.

Increase for underarm begins and neck edge continues to increase

Row 1: Inc1, k4, * sl 2 wyif, k4; rep from * to last 3sts, sl 2 wyif, k1, inc1.
Row 2: P1, *sl 2 wyib, p4; rep from * to last 2sts, sl 2 wyib.
Row 3: Inc1, k1, *sl 2 wyif, k4; rep from * to last 2sts, sl 2 wyif, inc1.
Row 4: *sl 2 wyib, p4; rep from * to last 5sts, sl 2 wyib, p3.
Row 5: Inc1, k4, *sl 2 wyif, k4; rep from * to last st, sl 1 wyif, inc1.
Row 6: Sl 1 wyib, p4, *sl 2 wyib, p4; rep from * to last 2sts, sl 2 wyib.
Row 7: Inc1, k1, *sl 2 wyif, k4; rep from * to end, inc1.
Row 8: *sl 2 wyib, p4; rep from * to last 3sts, sl 2 wyib, p1.
Row 9: Inc1, *sl 2 wyif, k4; rep from * to last 3sts, sl 2 wyif, k1, inc1.
Row 10: P3, *sl 2 wyib, p4; rep from * to last 2sts, sl 2 wyib.
Row 11: Inc1, sl 1 wyif, k4, * sl 2 wyif, k4; rep from * to end, inc1.
Row 12: *sl 2wyib, p4; rep from * to last st, sl1 wyib.

Repeat the last 12 rows once more. Total of 30 sts increased. 57sts for left front. Leave yarn attached.

Unite back and fronts

The two fronts and back will be worked back and forth as one piece.

Start at left neck edge and maintain selvedge sts only at each neck edge.
Row 1: Inc1, k4 *sl 2 wyif, k4; rep from * to last 4 sts of left front (this includes the selvedge st at the armhole edge), sl 2 wyif, k2, CO 0(12,) sts, join back, k2, * sl 2 wyif, k4; rep from * to last 4 sts of back (includes the selvedge at end), sl 2 wyif, k2, CO 0(12) sts, join to right front, k2, *sl 2 wyif, k4; rep from * to end, inc1.
Row 2: P4, *sl 2 wyib, p4; rep from * to last 2sts, sl 2 wyib.
Row 3: Inc1, k1, *sl 2 wyif, k4; rep from * to last 5sts, sl 2 wyif, k3, inc1.
Row 4: P3, *sl 2 wib, p4; rep from * to last 5sts, sl 2 wyib, p3.
Row 5: Inc1, k4, *sl 2 wyif, k4; rep from * to last 4sts, sl 2 wyif, k2, inc1.
Row 6: P2, *sl 2 wyib, p4; rep from * to last 2sts, sl 2 wyib.
Row 7: Inc1, k1, *sl 2 wyif, k4; rep from * to last 3sts, sl 2 wyif, k1, inc1.
Row 8: P3, *sl 2 wyib, p4; rep from * to last 3sts, sl 2 wyib, p1.
Row 9: Inc1, *sl 2 wyif, k4; rep from * to end, inc1.
Row 10: *sl 2 wyib, p4; rep from * to last 2sts, sl 2 wyib.
Row 11: Inc1, sl 1 wyif, k4, *sl 2 wyif, k4; rep from * to last 3sts, sl 2 wyif, k1, inc1.
Row 12: P3, *sl 2 wyib, p4; rep from * to last st, sl 1 wyib.

Repeat last 12 rows another 3(4) times working row 1 as follows: Inc1, k4, *sl 2 wyif, k4; rep from * to end, inc1.
264(300) sts total. Cut yarn leaving a tail.

Skirt

Join for working in the round as follows:
Starting at the left neck edge slip 200(226) sts onto the 3.5mm (US #4) circular needle, leaving 64(74) sts on the 3.75mm (US #5) needle. With the right side facing, overlap the fronts with the smaller sized needle behind the needle holding the right front flap. Beginning where the two different sized needles meet, place marker, rejoin yarn and knit one stitch from the 3.75mm (US #5) needle together with one stitch from the 3.5mm(US #4) needle, knitting onto the 3.5mm(US #4)needle. Repeat this for a total of 64(74) sts then continue to knit across the rest of the sts to the marker.
Total of 200(226) sts on needle.

Next rnd: Still using the 3.5mm (US #4) needle decrease 38(58) sts as evenly as possible around. 162(168) sts remain
Rnds 1 and 2: * K1tbl, p2; rep from * around
The next rnd can be worked the same as rnds 1and 2 if the dress is being made without the ribbon insert.
Rnd 3: *K1tbl, yo, p2tog; rep from * around
Rnds 4,5 and 6 work same as rnds 1and 2
Rnd 7: Increase 54(48) sts as evenly as possible around.
Total of 216, sts on needles.

First skirt panel

Change back to 3.75mm (US #5) change to a different length of circular when necessary.
Rnd 1: *sl 2 wyif, k4; rep from * around.
Rnd 2: K1, *sl 2 wyif, k4; rep from * to last 5sts, sl 2 wyif, k3.
Rnd 3: K2, *sl 2 wyif, k4; rep from * to last 4sts, sl 2 wyif, k2.
Rnd 4: K3, *sl 2 wyif, k4; rep from * to last 3sts, sl 2 wyif, k1.
Rnd 5: K4, *sl 2 wyif, k4; rep from * to last 2sts, sl 2 wyif.
Rnd 6: K5, *sl 2 wyif, k4; rep from * to last 2sts, sl 1wyif, remove marker, sl 1 wyif, replace marker.
Rnd 7: Repeat rnd 6.
Rnd 8: K3, *sl 2 wyif, k4; rep from * to last 2sts, sl 2 wyif, slip next stitch to right hand needle, remove marker, slip stitch back to left needle, replace marker.
Rnd 9: Repeat rnd 8.
Rnds 10, 11 and 12 repeat rnds 4, 3 and 2.
Rnd 13: *sl 2 wyif, k4, inc1; rep from * around. There will be one increase before marker. 36 sts increased. Total of 252 sts on needles.
Rnd 14: K1, *sl 2 wyif, k5; rep from * to last 6sts, sl 2 wyif, k4.
Rnd 15: K2, *sl 2 wyif, k5; rep from * to last 5sts, sl 2 wyif, k3.
Rnd 16: K3, *sl 2 wyif, k5; rep from * to last 4sts, sl 2 wyif, k2.
Rnd 17: K4, *sl 2 wyif, k5; rep from * to last 3sts, sl 2 wyif, k1.
Rnd 18: K5, * sl 2 wyif, k5; rep from * to last 3sts, sl 2 wyif, remove marker, k1, replace marker.
Rnd 19: K5, *sl 2 wyif, k5; rep from* to last 2sts, sl 2 wyif.
Rnd 20: K4, * sl 2 wyif, k5; rep from * to last 2sts, sl 2 wyif, slip next stitch onto right-hand needle, remove marker, slip stitch back, replace marker.
Rnds 21, 22, 23, 24-repeat rnds 17, 16, 15 and 14
Rnd 25: *Sl 2 wyif, k5; rep from * to end.
Rnds 26-36 repeat rnds 14-24
Rnd 37: *Sl 2 wyif, k5, inc1; rep from * Remember final increase before marker. 36, sts increased. Total of 288sts on needles.
Rnd 38: K1, *sl 2 wyif, k6; rep from * to last 7sts, sl 2 wyif, k5.
Rnd 39: K2, * sl 2 wyif, k6; rep from * to last 6sts, sl 2 wyif, k4.
Rnd 40: K3, * sl 2 wyif, k6; rep from * to last 5sts, sl 2 wyif, k3.
Rnd 41: K4, * sl 2 wyif, k6; rep from * to last 4sts, sl 2 wyif, k2.
Rnd 42: K5, *sl 2 wyif, k6; rep from * to last 3sts, sl 2 wyif, k1.
Rnd 43: K6, *sl 2 wyif, k6; rep from * to last 2sts, sl 2 wyif.
Rnds 44, 45, 46, 47 and 48 repeat rnds 42, 41, 40, 39 and 38
Rnd 49: *Sl 2 wyif, k6; rep from * to end.
Rnds 50-61 repeat rnds 38-49
Rnds 62-67 change to 3.5mm (US #4) and *k1tbl, p2; rep from * around
First skirt panel complete. If making the tunic go straight to hem instructions. If making the dress repeat the last 67 rnds once more then rnds 1-61 once again.
Work the last ribbing section as follows: work as for rnd 62 but increase 1 stitch at end of rnd, then work rnds 63-66 as normal, on rnd 67 purl 2 together at the end of the rnd. 512 sts.

Hem

Rnd 1: * ssk, yo; rep from *around.
Rnd 2: Knit.
Repeat rnds 1and 2 twice more.
Rnd 7: * yo, k2 tog; rep from * around.
Rnd 8: Knit.
Repeat rnds 7 and 8 once more then rnd 7 one more time.
Picot bind off: * cable cast on 2 sts, bind off 6; rep from * around end, bind off 8.

Finishing

Neck/cross over edging

Using 3.5mm (US #4) needle and starting at the bottom of the right front flap pick up and knit approx. 90(99)sts up the edge (this is about 3 out of every 4 sts) and then pick up 24 sts across the back of neck removing waste yarn from invisible cast on and 90(99) sts down the left front flap. Bind off first 4 sts purlwise, * Cable cast on 2 sts, bind off 6; rep from * up left front flap. Across the neck sts work cable cast on 2, bind off 6 but include a p2 together in the bound off sts, Work right front flap same as left. There may not be exactly 6 sts on the final bind off.

Sleeve edgings

Using 3.5mm (US #4) 16 inch circular needle. and starting at the middle of the underarm sts pick up and knit 0(6) from the straight underarm edge, 18 sts up diagonal of underam, 72 sts evenly distributed up one straight edge of front over shoulder and down straight edge of other side, 18 sts on diagonal underam and 0(6) on straight edge of underarm. 108(120) sts. Place marker for beginning of the round. Rnd 1: (K1tbl, p2) 6(8) times, place marker, *k1tbl, p2; rep from * to 18(24) sts before end of rnd, place marker, k1tbl, p2 to end of rnd.

Short rows: Wrap and turn with yarn in back. When picking up a wrap on a right side row insert the right needle under the wrap knitwise and into the wrapped stitch trough the back loop and knit together as one. Pick up the wrap without knitting through the back loop on wrong side rows

Rnd 2: (RS) *K1tbl, p2; rep from * to 3 sts past the second marker, W+T wyib, (WS) k2, p1tbl to 3 sts past the other marker, W+T, continue as established working 3 more sts past each marker and picking up wrapped sts until a total of 12 sts after each marker have been worked ending with the last W+T on a wrong side. After the turn work K1tbl, p2 to the end of the rnd.
Bind off all sts in rib pattern and pick up final wrap.

Weave in ends. Wet block gently, this is mostly to set the stitches. Do not hang up the dress as it will stretch too much but instead lay flat to dry.
Insert ribbon through eyelets.

Also see Gudrun Johnston's blog at shetlandtrader.blogspot.com