Weardowney Knit Couture

We talk exclusively to Gail and Amy of Weardowney about their new book 'Weardowney Knit Couture'

You must be very proud of the book. It is a beautiful collection of patterns that really represents Weardowney. How long were you working on it?

We only had 6 weeks in order to complete the book.

Why did you choose to include a history of knitting in the book? (I found it inspirational and fascinating)

We chose to write about the history of knitting precisely because it is so fascinating, in its richness of aspects.

The origins of knit are so early on in civilisations, and bearing in mind that many archaeologists through the ages may not have been able to distinguish woven or knitted fragments of materials- means its origins are still not fully authenticated.

Moving on in its story, it is a craft of varied social demographic, from a labour for the working classes, to entry into the drawing room as a pastime in the Victorian age.

It's entry into fashion, and its iconic influence that progresses even to this day (a piece of knit evokes more than the sum of its parts- think of fair-isle or Aran for example.)

We wanted to make it a 'crossover' book, and Henry Conway's background in costume and journalism made his input a joy as a co-author.

Which designers have been your major inspirations?

Amy and I have many inspirations, but always come back to the favoured inspirators of Galliano and Westwood.

I worked for Galliano for seven years from his first collection to just before he decamped for Paris. I can't remember ever feeling it was a glamorous job, but it was fantastic, a real in at the deep end, and 'hit the ground running' environment.

I try to maintain this approach within our set up, embracing things that come our way, and relishing everyone's ability to rise to a new challenge

Do you see yourself as a knitter who designs or as a designer who makes knitwear?

We are designers who work in the medium of knit.

What types of yarns do you like to work with?

We love floppy, drapey, crepey yarns, silks, viscoses, cottons, and bamboo.

Do you have a favourite design in the book?

Amy likes the long waistcoat best, and I have a bit of a penchant for the circular skirt in all its guises.

Do you get chance to knit for pleasure?

We don't get chance to knit for pleasure sadly, yet, though what we do is a pleasure.

You obviously have a very busy schedule. How many collections do you produce in a year? And approximately how many garments are there in each collection?

We produce 2 catwalk collections a year, comprising of some 18 looks, then there are kits, bespoke orders, and commissions.

How many knitters do you have knitting for you? Are they all based in the UK?

We have over 100 knitters all based in the UK, who are the team, along with our apprentices here, and they are all amazing.

Could you tell us a little about the design process? How long from the first sketches does it take for a design or a collection to be "ready"?

The design process is really as long as a piece of string, as long as it takes, and with knitting patience is certainly a virtue in the process.

Where do you find inspiration?

Inspiration truly comes from everywhere, the changing seasons, corn, wicker, embroidery, wet leaves, fruits and smells can even start us off.

Are you planning any more books?

We are planning our next book-Remake-Remodel, is an Interiors Volume, which sets out with an Artisans approach to the home.

It looks at Art and Designers (Schiaparelli and Dali's lips sofa for instance) and asks the reader to look around them at what they can 'Remake-Remodel' (an old dining table cut in half makes an impressive double bed headboard for instance) and knitted squares can make an interesting alternative to net curtains. Knit abounds of course, and some interesting wall finishes with a tube of oil paint.

Do you think the love affair with hand knitting will continue? And what can we do to help sustain it?

We think the current love affair with knitting will run its fashionable course.

What we can all do to help sustain it is to continually strive for its progression as the infinite craft it has shown itself to be right throughout history up to and beyond the present day.

What next for Weardowney?
What plans do you have for the future?

Weardowney's plans for the future are immediately;
Knit groups (Amy is starting one at Starbucks and planning their expansion up and down the country)
Children's knitting classes on Saturdays here at WD and in schools.
Remake-Remodel.
New shops!
More festival frolly's (we started this year at the Isle of Wight pop festival.)
Exhibitions.

For more information about Weardowney visit www.weardowney.com