Ena Sweater

from the Jane Waller archive.
adapted by Woolly Thinking (Jane Waller & Susan Crawford)

Original pattern

The original pattern from the 1930's is shown in its entirety for you to knit from if you wish. We have adapted the pattern to work with today's yarn weights and body shapes. The tension is different because of the change in yarn weight. The main differences are the body length and the sleeve shaping. The original sleeve will have been padded and therefore the sleeve head was made much larger to accommodate this. We have changed the shaping so the garment fits as a normal sweater. The shoulder buttonhole section has also been altered as it appears it may be incorrect. Finally the original sweater is for a 32inch chest only. We have re-graded the pattern and the sweater will now fit between a 36inch and a 42inch chest comfortably. We are working on additional sizes which will follow later in this Issue's updates.

Materials

Jamieson & Smith 2ply Jumper yarn (4 ply weight yarn) (25gm/118 metres approx)
100% pure new wool.

10 x 25gm balls of shade 78

Needles

1 pair 2.75mm (US #2) needles
1 pair 3mm (US #3) needles
6 buttons
6 small press studs

Tension

28sts x 36 rows to 4ins (10cm) using 3mm needles over stocking stitch.

To fit
Bust size	36inches - 40inches
	92cm - 102cm
Actual size	44inches
	112cm

Abbreviations

kfb1 - knit into the front and back of stitch to increase a stitch.
pfb1 - purl into the front and back of stitch to increase a stitch.
yfwd - yarn forward
k2tog - knit 2 sts together
k3tog - knit 3 sts together
k4tog - knit 4 sts together
p2tog - purl 2 sts together
Orange Text - Indicates an amendment to the pattern has been made since first published.

Click to see larger image

Pattern notes

Lace pattern (14st repeat + 1)

Row 1 (RS): *k1, p2, k1, p2, k1, yfwd, k1, yfwd, k1, p2, k1, p2. Rep from * to last st., k1
Row 2: p1, * k2, p1,k2, p5, k2, p1, k2, p1. Rep from * to end.
Row 3: *k1,p2,k1,p2,k1, yfwd, k3, yfwd, k1, p2, k1, p2. Rep from * to last st., k1.
Row 4: p1,*k2, p1, k2, p7, k2, p1, k2, p1. rep from * to end.
Row 5: *k1, p2tog, k1, p2tog, k1, yfwd, k5, yfwd, k1, p2tog, k1, p2tog. Rep from * to last st., k1.
Row 6: p1, *k1, p1, k1, p9, k1, p1, k1, p1, rep from * to end.
Row 7: k1, *(k2tog twice), yfwd, k7, yfwd, k1 (k2tog, twice). Rep from * to end.
Row 8: purl to end.
Row 9: k1, *k2tog, yfwd, k9, yfwd, k2tog, k1. Rep from * to end.

Next 5 rows: Garter stitch.

These 14 rows form the pattern.

Pattern

Front

Using 2.75mm (US #2 ) needles, cast on 128sts.
Row 1: *k2, p2, rep from * to end.
Row 2: * k2, p2, rep from * to end.

Repeat these two rows for 3.5ins (9cm).
Next row:kfb1.,( k12,kfb1) 9 times, k9, kfb1.
Next row: p44, pfb1, p49, pfb1, p44. (141sts).
Change to 3mm (US #3) needles.
Commencing with row 1 work 14 rows of lace pattern.
Repeat these 14 rows 5 times more, then repeat rows 1 to 10 once more.

Shape armholes

Cast off 16sts at beg of next 2 rows.
Cast off 5sts at beg of foll 2 rows. (This completes 7 th pattern repeat)

** Keeping continuity of pattern, work rows 1 to 9 of next pattern repeat.
Next row: purl.

Click to see larger image

Yoke

With RS facing, cast on 42sts and knit to end of row.
Row 1: Turn and cast on 42sts and purl to end of row. (183sts)
Row 2: knit
Row 3: purl
Row 4: k41, k3tog., k95, k3tog., k41.
Row 5 and every alt row: k3, p to last 3sts., k3.
Row 6: k 40, k3tog., k93, k3tog., k40.
Row 8: k39, k3tog., k91, k3tog., k39.
Row 10: k38, k3tog., k89, k3tog., k38.
Row 12: k37, k3tog., k87, k3tog., k37.
Row 14: k36, k3tog., k85, k3tog., k36.

Continue as set, working 1 st less before first dec., 2sts less between first and second decrease, and 1 st less after the second decrease, until you have worked the 34 th row as follows:
Row 34: k26, k3tog., k65, k3tog., k26.
Row 36: k25, k4tog., k61, k4tog., k25.
Row 38: k24, k4tog., k57, k4tog., k24.
Row 40: k23, k4tog., k53, k4tog., k23.
Row 42: k22, k4tog., k49, k4tog., k22.
Row 44: k21, k4tog., k45, k4tog., k21.
Row 46: k20, k4tog., k41, k4tog., k20.
Row 48: k19, k4tog., k37, k4tog., k19.
Row 49: knit.
Row 50: k18, k4tog., k10, k2tog., k9, k2tog., k10, k4tog., k18.
Rows 51 & 52: knit.
Cast off.

Back

Using 2.75mm (US #2 ) needles, cast on 116sts.
Row 1: *k2, p2, rep from * to end.
Row 2: * k2, p2, rep from * to end.

Repeat these two rows for 3.5ins (9cm).
Next row:kfb1.,( k10,kfb1) 10 times, k5, kfb1. (127sts)
Next row: purl.

Change to 3mm (US #3) needles.
Commencing with row 1 work 14 rows of lace pattern.
Repeat these 14 rows 5 times more, then repeat rows 1 to 10 once more.

Shape armholes

Cast off 10sts at beg of next 2 rows.
Cast off 4sts at beg of foll 2 rows. (This completes 7 th pattern repeat).

Work yoke as for front from **

Click to see larger image

Sleeves (make two)

Using 2.75mm (US #2 ) needles, cast on 64sts.
Row 1: *k2, p2, rep from * to end.
Row 2: * k2, p2, rep from * to end.

Rep these two rows until work measures 2 ins (5cm)
Change to 3mm (US #3) needles.
Next row: *k1., kfb1, rep from * to end. (96sts)
Next row: p43, (pfb1, p2) 3 times, p to end. (99sts).

Work in pattern as for front inc 1 st each end of the 10 th and every following 4 th row until the 10 th row of the second pattern repeat has been completed. (work the extra sts at the end of every row in stocking stitch).

Cast off 8sts at beg of next 2 rows, then 2sts at the beg of every row until the last row of the fourth pattern repeat has been completed. Continue in stocking stitch, until 35sts remain.
Cast off.

Making up

Darn in all ends. Block and press all pieces on wrong side. Overlap front shoulder over back by approx 1.5 inches (4cm) and lightly stitch together at armhole edges. Sew up side seams. Sew sleeves seams together. Set sleeves into underarms. Sew in place. Attach three press studs to each shoulder opening, with a button positioned over each press stud as shown in photos.

Also see the Jane Waller interview in this issue.

This pattern is not to be used commercially or to be resold.  Copyright © Woolly Thinking 2007