Design Story

This hat is based on the elegant cloche hats of the 1920s & early 1930s, with a tall crown pulled low over the forehead drawing attention to the wearer's eyes. Many of the written instructions for making cloche style hats in magazines of this period are for crochet rather than knitting, so I thought I would make a knit version of this most stylish of head gear. I have combined the traditional look with contemporary techniques of short row shaping and a seamless construction teamed with a hand dyed yarn. Opt for a 'statement' button like the one used here - in this case a contrasting, vintage button.

The House of Elliot was one of my favourite period dramas produced by the BBC and like so many other women watching, I longed to be Louise Lombard or, to be more precise, Evangeline Elliot. It seemed appropriate, therefore that this cloche would be named after the character who re-introduced this wonderful style of hat to so many of us.

Materials

Babylonglegs SW Merino DK (Machine washable wool)
1 skein shade Rusty Cage semi-solid
3.25 mm (US #4) needles
4 mm (US #6) circular needle
4 mm (US #6) double pointed needles
Markers
1 button

To Fit

S, M, L - 45.5 (51, 56) cm (18, 20, 22 inch) head circumference
Finished measurement 40.5 (45.5, 51) cm (16, 18, 20 inch) brim circumference.

Model is wearing the largest size.

Tension

20 sts and 28 rows = 10 cm (4 inches) using 4 mm (US #6) needles over stocking stitch

Abbreviations

K - knit
P - purl
inc - increase, by working into front and back of stitch
SM - slip marker
PM - place marker
K2tog - knit two stitches together
K2togtbl - knit two stitches together through back of loops
st(s) - stitch(es)
w&t - wrap and turn, by work to turning point, slip the st purlwise, bring yarn to front of work, slip st back to left needle and take yarn to the back of the work and turn.

Pattern Notes

This hat is knitted in two parts, beginning with the brim that is knitted from side to side. The crown of the hat is then picked up around the brim and worked upwards in the round. Shaping is added at the nape of the neck using short row shaping.

The pattern is designed to 'show off' this beautiful semi-solid yarn at its best, clearly showing how different it can look depending on length of row and direction of knitting.

Pattern

Brim

Using 3.25 mm (US #) needles cast on 6 sts.
Foundation row: K1, P1, K1.
Working increases into pattern continue as folls:
Row 1: Inc 1, patt to last st, inc 1.
Row 2: Patt to last st, inc 1.
Row 3: Inc 1, patt to last st.
Row 4: as row 1.
Rep until 18 sts ending with row 4.
Patt without increasing for 3 rows.
Next row: Inc 1, patt to end.
Patt 1 row.
Buttonhole row: Patt 7, cast off 4 sts, patt to end.
Next row: Patt 8, turn, cast on 5 sts, bringing yarn forward before placing last cast on st onto needle, turn, patt to end.
Next row: Inc 1, patt 5, work 2 tog, patt to end.
Work 2 rows without shaping.
Next row: Patt to last 2 sts, patt 2 tog.
Next row: Patt 2 tog, patt to end.
Rep last 2 rows once more then 1st row only once more. Place a removable marker at this point.
Now work without shaping until work measures 40.5 (45.5, 51) cm (16, 18, 20 inches). Cast off.

Crown

Change to 4 mm (US #6) circular needle and commencing at marker at top of band, pick up 112, (116, 120) sts evenly around the upper edge of brim, by dividing brim into quarters and picking up 28 (29, 30) sts in each section, and working into the back of the stitch only. (This ensures that the brim 'stands proud' of the crown.) Place a marker after each 28, (29, 30) sts picked up and a different marker at the row end. Join work into a round. Knit one round, w&t around first st of next round, P to 2nd marker, SM, w&t, K42 (44, 45) w&t, P28 (29, 30) w&t, K18 (19, 20) w&t, P8 (9, 10) w&t, K to end of round - knitting together wraps with corresponding wrapped sts.

Knit one round, knitting together remaining wraps and wrapped sts not worked on previous round.

Continue knitting every round until crown measures 9 (10, 12) cm (3.5, 4, 4.5 inches), measured from centre back.

Shape Crown

Next round: K2togtbl * K to within 2 sts of marker, K2tog, SM, K2togtbl, repeat from * to last 2 sts of round, K2tog, SM.
Next round: Knit.
Repeat these two rounds until 16 (12, 16) sts remain. (You will need to change from the circular needles to double pointed during this time.)
Next round: K2tog across round (8, 6, 8 sts).
Draw yarn through these sts.

Making up

Take yarn through to inside of hat and fasten off firmly. Darn in any ends. Sew button in place. If possible steam lightly on head mannequin. Alternatively, just wear!

Just call me Ruby is the design name of Susan Crawford, co-author of A Stitch in Time, Vintage Knitting and Crochet patterns 1920-1949 : Vol.1 and Vintage Gifts to Knit. You can read more at www.justcallmeruby.com

This pattern is not to be used commercially or to be resold.  Copyright © Susan Crawford 2010

If you enjoyed this pattern please donate to keep knitonthenet alive!